Instrument cluster lights and tow lights not functional

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 01, 2020 11:01 pm

I was towing duck hunting boat last week on the way to hunt and the instrument cluster light went off. When I went to put the boat in I noticed one of the supports that serves as boat guide had bent out and cracked a weld. This had the trailer light wires running through it and the trailer lights were not functioning either. I can't help but think the failures are electrically related. I checked all the fuses while in place for continuity and all were ok including ones in power distribution box. I also swapped the relay for towing with no change. A couple days later jeep wouldn't start and found due to no fuel from tank to fuel head. Tested today and my Kennedy lift pump isn't running. I haven't checked for power to it yet.

Anyone have any idea where a common problem could cause the trailer lights and instrument cluster to both go out. The check engine lights etc do work just not the light that you dim and brighten to see speedometer etc.

Although much less likely any common place for fuel pump to not get power that is wired as original wire meant for gas per pump Its the wire ? blue /orange one under the driver side rear foot mat.

Billybob · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2020 10:14 am

Have you pulled out the trailer wires from the metal section that cracked?
You need to inspect those wires for any damage that may be causing a short to chassis or from one wire to another.

Is this a Factory Fit Tow Package or a knock-off version?

What year is this CRD?

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:00 am

This is factory 7 pin tow option used with a 7 to 4 flat connector adapter. There is definitely wire damage on the trailer but it isn't hooked to the jeep now so I wouldn't think that would have any bearing on the situation and wasn't hooked for several days after when the fuel pump quit. Not that it couldn't have caused a problem on the jeep system when it shorted thats why I am looking for a common cause in wiring. To be clear the boat trailer apparently developed a short while it was plugged in to the factory tow package 7 pin receptical causing the ensuing dash light problem and trailer tow problem. Thanks for any help.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2020 3:01 pm

TKB4 wrote:

This is factory 7 pin tow option used with a 7 to 4 flat connector adapter. There is definitely wire damage on the trailer but it isn't hooked to the jeep now so I wouldn't think that would have any bearing on the situation and wasn't hooked for several days after when the fuel pump quit. Not that it couldn't have caused a problem on the jeep system when it shorted thats why I am looking for a common cause in wiring. To be clear the boat trailer apparently developed a short while it was plugged in to the factory tow package 7 pin receptical causing the ensuing dash light problem and trailer tow problem. Thanks for any help.

Have you tested all your fuses with a test light or ohm meter to make darn sure they are good?
Sometimes looking at fuse will not show that it is blown.
Looking at the wiring diagrams for the 05, there are several fuses involved with supplying power to the rear brake and turn signal lights and trailer tow relays.
Some are in the Power distribution center and some are in the fuse cluster under the dash.
First need to know which rear lights are working ok, and which ones are not.
Fuel pump circuit is on a totally different fuse.
It sounds like you have lost a control power circuit that feeds several relays? Some of them are also fused... :shock:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:05 pm

With regards to the fuel pump.
The relay and fuse are under the hood.
The relay is what turns on the pump.
But wouldn't hurt to check the wiring leading up to pump. Might be a loose connection.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2020 7:26 pm

Thanks for replies. I believe all the jeep brake turn running lights work. None of trailer tow lights worked on trailer but think I can explain that but also think the actual 7 pin plug doesn't work for lights . I don't know about brake controller or 12 volt etc just ones used on say a 4 wheeler trailer and WW its same one that worked well at your drive recently. It di have air in fuel from the factory fuel head/ filter. When I took it out of line and left 2 micron in worked nl.

I checked all the fuses with meter just for continuity didn't remove them . I swapped relays in under hood distribution box with no change for fuel pump for sure.

Raining hard here , cleared out space in garage to push it into garage to work on early am and whatever it takes tomorrow.

Isn't the blue wire that is used by many for trailer brakes under dash floorboard area only have power when ignition is on? I will check it and if so will probably use it for the fuel pump if circuit not supplying power to it and LED for instrument cluster till I can get more time to try changing the 103 bulb etc.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2020 7:30 pm

My next step will be verifying power to fuel pump and either changing pump or running new power source after pull all the fuses out for visual inspection and testing again. I took off the fuel line toward CP3 and used a small funnel to pour some diesel in it from fuel filter and it started and ran normally.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jan 02, 2020 11:24 pm

TKB4 wrote:

Thanks for replies. I believe all the jeep brake turn running lights work. None of trailer tow lights worked on trailer but think I can explain that but also think the actual 7 pin plug doesn't work for lights . I don't know about brake controller or 12 volt etc just ones used on say a 4 wheeler trailer and WW its same one that worked well at your drive recently. It did have air in fuel from the factory fuel head/ filter. When I took it out of line and left 2 micron in worked nl.
I checked all the fuses with meter just for continuity didn't remove them . I swapped relays in under hood distribution box with no change for fuel pump for sure.
Raining hard here , cleared out space in garage to push it into garage to work on early am and whatever it takes tomorrow.
Isn't the blue wire that is used by many for trailer brakes under dash floorboard area only have power when ignition is on? I will check it and if so will probably use it for the fuel pump if circuit not supplying power to it and LED for instrument cluster till I can get more time to try changing the 103 bulb etc.

Is it an 05 or 06, makes a difference in wiring diagrams?

The trailer electric brake wire would only have 12v when the brake pedal is applied.
Checking for continuity with the fuses plugged in could throw you a curve. Best to test for actual 12v on both sides of fuse with a good 12v test light or use a DC volt meter.
You would be amazed at how many fuses I have found over the years that looked perfectly good but would not pass 12 volts.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2020 10:01 am

Yes I actually thought about the brake thing after posted that i was thinking it provided power to brake controller not the braking signal.

Its an 06.

Fixing to go out and put time in today till get something working right !!!

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2020 11:23 am

Okay got out and thinking the 7 to 4 way trailer adapter could have a problem so took it out and looked at each light . The right rear blinker is not working on the jeep and Right front and rear running light is not working and of course instrument cluster and fuel pump not working . Going out to trouble shoot some more.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2020 12:55 pm

Well partially solved part of the problem. See link for video where I jumped from hot wire and chassie ground to a 12 volt LED light and turned key on and low and behold the LED lit up and can hear slight sound from pump but still no fuel coming out of unhooked engine compartment fuel line . I think when I swapped relays I just checked swapped relay by turning key on and no fuel came out. So relay may have be a problem but not all of it.

Now since no fuel pumped either pump not working though it is apparently on (making noise), it may have lost prime so I guess I will put an original filter head back on to be able to prime it from front. I forgot the Kennedy pump isn't self priming. So if this works guess the problem is the push fittings at the tank( another reason to at least change out fittings all the way to tank or at least get a self priming pump like the facet.

More updates to come if anyone in treated.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2020 1:22 pm

TKB4 wrote:

Well partially solved part of the problem. See link for video where I jumped from hot wire and chassie ground to a 12 volt LED light and turned key on and low and behold the LED lit up and can hear slight sound from pump but still no fuel coming out of unhooked engine compartment fuel line . I think when I swapped relays I just checked swapped relay by turning key on and no fuel came out. So relay may have be a problem but not all of it.
Now since no fuel pumped either pump not working though it is apparently on (making noise), it may have lost prime so I guess I will put an original filter head back on to be able to prime it from front. I forgot the Kennedy pump isn't self priming. So if this works guess the problem is the push fittings at the tank( another reason to at least change out fittings all the way to tank or at least get a self priming pump like the facet.
More updates to come if anyone in treated.

If you go to the trouble to drop the tank to get at the push on fittings, go ahead and do yourself a favor and install an intank fuel pump.
Cheaper than the Kennedy or Facet and it puts everything under pressure including the push on fittings.

Hope you get all the electrical issues sorted out, keep us posted as to what you find. Very curious. :POPCORN:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2020 8:15 pm

Well there was no air in line problem , after changed out fuel filter heads to known good one I pumped it up and jeep would start and run a about 10 seconds or less and die, pump it again same thing and again couple more times and then noticed the plunger on filter head would stay mostly in at least for a little while like at least a partial vacuum formed toward the tank. First I took off line from pump to tank put funnel in hose and filled it up it still didn't run.

I undid both sides of the Kennedy lift pump mounted on frame rail just behind transfer case and bypassed it with a 3/8 barb connector. Then pumped it up and it works so took the pump off and hooked it up directly to battery filled hose with diesel and no pumpy !! One reason I got the kennedy was their reputation for quality and the fact that it would let fuel pass through if it failed . Maybe thats only if motor fails rather than impeller shattering , I don't know I just know that with it not pumping the fuel head primer could not pull fuel through it I have 4 of them so since need to get son back to college tomorrow going to go ahead and put one of the other pumps on it but probably won't buy another one at least unless they replace it free. Other three have all done well for 6 to 8 years but this one about 3 years old.

So now getting back to it and try changing light bulbs after that.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 04, 2020 7:49 pm

Final answer: Fuse number 9 bad and it states in diagram for cluster and right side parking lights. Had to remove it to prove it bad.
There were several different fuses linked to "cluster" . Maybe most of them were just the specific light for a bulb for that particular system like the overheat light for the engine temp sensor on the cluster. BTW it also fues the climate control illumination and maybe gear indicator.

Failed and at least partially blocked Kennedy lift pump.

Generally much more of a headache to troubleshoot than it should have been because I thought if the Kennedy lift pump failed vehicle would still run. It didn't , even with new stock filter and good filter head and no other components in line.

At least I got some other maintenance done . Changed oil and coolant and topped off fluids .

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 04, 2020 9:41 pm

So very glad you got it all figured out. :-)r

That is why I was saying you cannot simply look a fuse and fully verify that it is still good.

As to the pump issue, not a big fan of the add on outside the tank fuel pumps. Seen to many failures with them over the years. My Dodge Cummins even came from the factory with the block mounted fuel pump but Dodge/Mopar quit selling or supplying them many years ago due to so many people having problems with them. People were burning up their VP44 injection pumps like crazy due to poor fuel flow. Dodge/Mopar now only sale/supply an intank retro module kit similar to what we are putting in our Jeep tanks.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 04, 2020 9:52 pm

I’ve been using the Facet 40109 pump for about 10 years.
It’s cheap and easy to install.
It also has a check valve so it always keeps my filter head under pressure and never looses prime. But even if it did loose prime it’s self priming.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 04, 2020 11:48 pm

yep I had already decided to use the facet under the battery tray on my next one much easier to change out if needed too and much cheaper

Instrument cluster lights and tow lights not functional

Who is online