Semi dry start

krb · **Posted:** Thu Jan 23, 2020 7:47 am

I've just about got this project buttoned back up after a new headgasket, exhaust valves, glow plugs and rockers. So far I have no hardware or parts left over, other than the FCV butterfly which was planned! Just need to re-install the timing belt, radiator, grill etc. etc.

Here's the process that I'm planning:
1. Once the TB is done I'll spin it over with the key to get oil up top (I did use assembly lube) in the lifters & rockers. It shouldn't start without bleeding the fuel system post filter, right?
2. Check TB & tensioner clocking.
3. Bleed the fuel lines.
4. Start and let run a few seconds. Check for leaks and confirm TB timing & tension is still correct.
5. Finish reassembly & then test drive if all went well...

Any problems with this thought process? Am I forgetting/overlooking something? I did step 4 awhile back after installing a new water pump & timing belt - just before snapping off a glow plug, hence the head removal, leading me back to where I am now...

Thoughts? Concerns?

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:41 am

You need to turn over the engine several times by hand first to make sure there is no valve piston contact . I usually turn mine over 6 times. Then readjust timing tensioner and then spin by hand again. If all goes well now you can turn over by starter with ASD relay pulled to ensure it doesn't start if you want. It shouldn't start but its possible with fuel left in the supply line if you turn it over enough to bleed the air out.

Personally ,once I confirm the tensioner by hand a couple of times I just start it , but I don't remove the front cap.

I am not sure if turning it over a few times with starter would help much but it certainly wouldn't hurt anything.

krb · **Posted:** Thu Jan 23, 2020 10:38 am

Ah, good point on turning over by hand. I think that's what I did last time. Will add it to the procedure.

By front cap you mean grill, rad, intercooler, condenser etc?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 23, 2020 12:18 pm

I do 2 full rotations and make sure that the cam pins go back in by hand. Takes slight tapping back and forth of the crank, and maybe a slight bit of help with a wrench on the exhaust side. This verifies the timing. Once in a while they dont line up and I reset the timing and try the verification again. Then I start it for 5-10 seconds with the timing cover off, no coolant etc. If all sounds good I finish assembly, and adjust the tensioner if necessary. You may get some rocker chatter at first as the oil gets to them.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 23, 2020 9:08 pm

I should have added that I recheck all three pins to and if you use the new timing belt like you always should there is something wrong if you don't have to readjust the tensioner at least in my experience. When I say 6 turns I make the injector pump marks line up too. I think it lines up every 3 and cams line up every 2 so to get both to line up its every 6 but I may remember wrong .

krb · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2020 6:13 am

Thanks guys.

I did a good job of labeling everything, at least until now. I have two metal idlers and two plastic/nylon ones. Which set goes with the timing belt and which pair with the serpentine belt? I'm thinking the black plastic ones were for the timing belt?

I just remembered the COrobotchicken videos and answered my own question. Black plastic for the TB and metal for the serpentine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbi3rRSEdA4

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:23 pm

yep
another source for several good CRD videos GET IT GARAGE also a member here under that name.

krb · **Posted:** Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:47 pm

I just noticed that the FSM shows adjusting the tensioner to the right of the notch, so the left "fork" is just past the spring bar. I think it called it a "1mm adjustment"? I'll reread when I head back to the shop. All the threads I've read say to line up the spring bar within the notch. But then again, the FSM give two different torque ratings for that 10mm tensioner bolt too...

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 26, 2020 8:21 am

If anything I would align it to be as tight as possible on the edge of the notch because it is going to loosen with use not tighten. I think this is clockwise rotation of the tensioner but haven't done it in a year or so. I think without looking the torque is about 24 ft lbs since it is into aluminum. Whatever it is I would not over torque it the steel insert in the aluminum can pull out or be damaged . That is why several of us have put studs in instead of the bolts so they won't have to be removed and replaced.

krb · **Posted:** Sun Jan 26, 2020 9:11 am

Not finding the ASD?

krb · **Posted:** Mon Jan 27, 2020 6:12 am

Got it fired up. Everything seemed to go ok.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 27, 2020 10:06 am

Great good luck with the rest of assembly. Guess you found the ASD relay, for others its in distribution box in front of the battery and the inside lid of the box is labeled.

krb · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2020 6:54 am

I did, but having trouble remembering where one loom end connects...

It's the last in the loom on the right side that goes to the FCV, injection pump and AC. Its sort of round and I labeled it "AC pump" but that was a year and a half ago and can't find it's home now. Three brown wires with green tracers.

In the FSM wiring diagram I find the AC Pressure Transducer has 3 brown/green wires going to it but where would that be located anyone know?

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2020 12:02 pm

I would think it would go here. This is just toward the battery from the fuel pump but I believe it is the pressure transducer in the ac linset

https://imgur.com/UcDNYHH

krb · **Posted:** Sat Feb 01, 2020 2:19 pm

Ah, that's it! I hadn't installed those lines yet - which is why I couldn't find where it goes...
Many thanks,

krb · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2020 6:58 am

Just to up-date: It fired up and is running fine, no codes so far. I'll road test as soon as I fix a tranny line leak (how does a crimp fitting fail while sitting still & not running???).

Then put the front end back on and drive!

Thanks for everyone's help.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2020 2:07 pm

Good luck sounds like you definitely deserve it!!! Who knows about Trans line or any other leaks etc for that matter guess its just its time but much better than on the road with all the fluid pumped out !!

krb · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:33 am

Good point! I was looking at the glass half empty when it was actually half full! Always better to break down at home! :pepper:

krb · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2020 4:48 am

Drove a couple miles and it went mostly good!
Tranny line holding so far
#4 injector return was leaking - fixed now I think
Growl/squeak in serpentine area - idlers are new but will swap back with the old & see
Crankshaft pulley has slight wobble - will try & adjust
Code P0401 - which may be related to my EGR block off plate? Need to make sure I plugged the wiring back in...

krb · **Posted:** Sat Mar 14, 2020 8:18 am

Good news!

Fuel leak fixed
Growling idler replaced (put old one back on for now)
Re-torqued crankshaft pulley & now runs straight
But still have P0401 engine code... :furious:

So now I can finish with the front end re-assembly and then back on the road after 2 years! :JEEPIN:

Thank you to all the folks that answered my questions, authored Stickies and shared links etc,

Semi dry start

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