Fuse #16

paul1386 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:06 pm

Driving home the other day jeep just stopped. It would turn over but not start. I checked the forum and noticed that it could be fuse#16. Fuse #16 is blown and so I checked grounds and wiring and it all looks good. I replaced the fuse but every time I go to start the jeep it will turn over and blow fuse #16. Looking for more suggestions. Is there a thread that might be able to help with this?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 12:21 am

paul1386 wrote:

Driving home the other day jeep just stopped. It would turn over but not start. I checked the forum and noticed that it could be fuse#16. Fuse #16 is blown and so I checked grounds and wiring and it all looks good. I replaced the fuse but every time I go to start the jeep it will turn over and blow fuse #16. Looking for more suggestions. Is there a thread that might be able to help with this?

What year model?
Fuse 16 supplies several things depending on year model.

paul1386 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 11:36 am

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD sport

layback40 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 4:40 pm

Now put that info in your signature line for next time. What are the numbers you have there?

My66dodge · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 4:44 pm

16 goes to the asd relay so if it popped the vehicle won’t start cause it’s missing that power to the ECM to run so you need to trace the wiring and find where it’s shorted

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 5:02 pm

paul1386 wrote:

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD sport

Sorry, his is going to be long, but this one is complicated and is not a simple process :banghead:

Based on the Factory Service Manual for the 2005 model. (Disclaimer: some errors have been found in this manual)
Fuse 16 is energized when the ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay closes via a signal from the ECM (Engine Control Module).
See page 8W-10-19 and 8W-10-20 in the FSM:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/J ... Manual.pdf

When the ASD relay closes, it supplies CONTROL POWER to all the following components:
Fuse 16 only supplies control power to all these components, it does not supply any actual power (30) to any of the components as they are supplied by seperate circuits.

This is what I would suggest for a test:
Unplug and remove all the relays listed above 3-7 located in the Power Control Module under the hood.
Unplug the EGR Valve, FCV, Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid, Boost Pressure Solenoid, Glow Plug Module Relay,
Leave the Front Control Module along for now.

Now, place a new fuse in No. 16, turn ignition switch to the ON position but DO NOT try to start engine and see if it blows the fuse.
If it DOES NOT blow the fuse, leave the Ignition switch in the on position and start plugging the items back in one at a time and checking fuse 16 after each one is plugged in or reconnected to see if it blows it. If one of them blows the fuse, you have identified the problem.

If it blows 16 fuse as soon as you turn the ignition switch to the ON position with all the items listed above disconnected and relays removed, you have a problem in the Front Control Module or you have a problem in the one of the wires going to one of the components listed.

Post your results. :wink:

Billybob · **Posted:** Tue Feb 11, 2020 2:27 am

Good advice above from WWDiesel :wink:

If the above actions do not resolve the issue I will chip in with some advice.

Lots of wiring shorts to chassis being reported lately on the Jeep KJ sites as the Jeeps get older...been there done that!

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

These jeeps and seems to be most jeeps, really have some electrical issues. I have thought about upgrading to so9mething newer, but from what I have read, even the new and newer jeeps have issues...I think I'll keep driving my 220K mileage CRD

So many people here willing and able to help-I had a very similar problem however, mine only blew once. Good luck!

Ken

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 12, 2020 3:29 pm

mtbdemon wrote:

These jeeps and seems to be most jeeps, really have some electrical issues. I have thought about upgrading to so9mething newer, but from what I have read, even the new and newer jeeps have issues...I think I'll keep driving my 220K mileage CRD
So many people here willing and able to help-I had a very similar problem however, mine only blew once. Good luck!
Ken

Electrical problems can be found, it is just a process of elimination and finding the offending device or circuit using a good wiring diagram as a guide and a few basic electrical tools like a 12v test light and a good volt/ohm meter. Having a Power Probe and a few back probes can also come in real handy. :wink:

A good scanner can also sometimes point you in the right direction.

paul1386 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2020 4:56 pm

Thank you WW Diesel for your post. I recently replaced the boost solenoid, so I started there. The wire and connections appeared good. I then went back and started checking the two grounds that I am aware of. This a picture of the ground on the fender well. The bolt is well rusted and being stubborn so I can try to clean it up.

[http://postimg.cc/PvqTyfdW][/img]

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2020 5:31 pm

That’s exactly the ground I described in another post... only found there on the 05s, the 06 and late 05 doesn’t have it there. That’s the main ground for the ECM and TCM, if it’s bad all kinds of issues

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geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2020 7:51 pm

paul1386 wrote:

Thank you WW Diesel for your post. I recently replaced the boost solenoid, so I started there. The wire and connections appeared good. I then went back and started checking the two grounds that I am aware of. This a picture of the ground on the fender well. The bolt is well rusted and being stubborn so I can try to clean it up.

[http://postimg.cc/PvqTyfdW][/img]

Hard to tell from your image, but if that is the ground point directly behind the driver's headlamp, that is a continual source of power issues on these. When that ground point fails, the power tries to find another ground - usually through another circuit - but what is happening is the resistance in the circuit goes up and that is what keeps taking out the fuse. Rebuilding that ground point should resolve the problem.

While you are there - that computer module right next to that ground point is the FCM, the Forward Control Module. This is ONLY used on the 05 CRD, and only one plug is used. The empty socket gets the same water spray into it that rotted the ground point, and it corrodes the terminals and seeps inside the module. A popular fix is to fill that empty socket with silicone RTV, making a solid plug that will prevent any water intrusion. If it has been wet recently and you have been driving... Before you seal the socket, aim a hair dryer on low at it for an hour or so to heat up / dry out the interior of the module. Then seal it up.

paul1386 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:09 pm

yes it is directly behind the driver's side headlight. I have been soaking it with WD-40. The Front Control Module does look pretty cruddy by the terminal. will try again tomorrow to remove the ground bolt. Thank you to all

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2020 11:25 pm

If you cannot get the corroded bolt out, cut the wires off, install new ring terminals on the ends of the ground wires, drill a new 1/4" hole next to the original location and bolt the wires to the new location. (may have to remove a little insulation) Best to use some heat shrink tubing to protect the crip area of the ring terminals. Be sure and scrap or grind the paint off of the new location on the fender real good to ensure a good ground. Once everything is installed and bolted up, spray all the parts real good with anti corrosion spray like Fluid Film. https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Lubricant- ... T0V1GF8J9T
Lots of mechanics use Fluid Film especially in the salt belt up north were electrical connections are exposed to the detrimental effects of road salt.

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

That ground is close to the battery. Cut the rusty ring terminals off and run a new wire from those wires directly to the negative terminal on the battery. This eliminates a lot of connections. Or run it to a better ground connection that is not prone to rusting like that spot does. The only reason they put it there was to save 12 inches of wire.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Feb 17, 2020 3:34 pm

Jay ne Ohio wrote:

That ground is close to the battery. Cut the rusty ring terminals off and run a new wire from those wires directly to the negative terminal on the battery. This eliminates a lot of connections. Or run it to a better ground connection that is not prone to rusting like that spot does. The only reason they put it there was to save 12 inches of wire.

That is an excellent alternative solution!
But I would still recommend connecting a ground wire to that fender and back to whatever point you choose to ground those two wires since the ECM and FCM are both mounted to it.
Last thing you want to do is set up some kind of "Circular Ground" or "Floating Ground" issue which can cause different potentials between electronic components depending on where they get their ground from.
I may be over cautious, but better safe than sorry.

I actually ran into this problem on a Dodge truck one time that was affecting the transmission TC lockup operation. :shock:

Electricity can do some really weird things..... :dizzy:

Billybob · **Posted:** Tue Feb 18, 2020 7:57 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Jay ne Ohio wrote:

That ground is close to the battery. Cut the rusty ring terminals off and run a new wire from those wires directly to the negative terminal on the battery. This eliminates a lot of connections. Or run it to a better ground connection that is not prone to rusting like that spot does. The only reason they put it there was to save 12 inches of wire.

That is an excellent alternative solution!
But I would still recommend connecting a ground wire to that fender and back to whatever point you choose to ground those two wires since the ECM and FCM are both mounted to it.
Last thing you want to do is set up some kind of "Circular Ground" or "Floating Ground" issue which can cause different potentials between electronic components depending on where they get their ground from.
I may be over cautious, but better safe than sorry.

I actually ran into this problem on a Dodge truck one time that was affecting the transmission TC lockup operation. :shock:

Electricity can do some really weird things..... :dizzy:

Yeah I agree with this ….best to try keep the ground near to its original position....some other components may be picking up their grounds from that location and moving the ground direct to battery may rob those components of their required ground points.
Also helps to try keep the wiring original so as to not confuse any owner of the Jeep after you!

The poor next owner of my Export 2002 CRD will have major problems as I have had to do major re-wiring...all marked on the Wiring Diagram kept inside the Jeep! :wink:

Fuse #16

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