Hi guy!
After a lot of work done on mechanical stuff and working fine all summer and fall
my 05 CRD now the horn is going off in the middle of the night. I disconnected the battery because from the FOB didn't work.Today I took it for a drive and after 15 min in the middle of intersection horn went off!! I pulled in first parking lot and I took out fuse#1 (no p windows and sun roof) Drive back home and high beams on after shutting down the engine.. now the battery is disconnected again Looks like is related to the computer, after reset in 15 min is acting again..
Thank for you help!

Where are you located?

I am not sure about USA/Canada KJs but the Export versions definitely have a "Hood Closed Switch" inside the engine bay on the RHS. This is next to the Air Filter box on the sidewall facing upwards.

If the hood is forced open while Jeep is locked the hood allows the switch to rise and make contact which sets the horn off. This is in case someone is trying to hot-wire the Jeep or steal some parts such as the battery.
Not sure if this still applies while driving!

You can test this by unplugging the connector off from the switch.....if that fixes your problem you can either leave it disconnected, check if the switch is working or replace the switch.

If you disconnect the battery and re-connect it while lights are OFF do the high beams come ON?
If the high beams come ON immediately the High Beam Relay could be sticking.
This High Beam Relay is the small relay on the fuse panel (Junction Block) inside the cabin.

If you flip over this fuse panel there are lots more of these small relays so you can swap them over.
Or could be the Multifunction Switch or the BCM, which allows the lights to stay ON for a while after switching ignition OFF, could be faulty.

Wiring problems are happening a lot more nowadays as these Jeeps get older!

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2002 Export CRD

Thanks Billybob I m located in Ontario.
No hood switch, and I cheched all door switches, display OK on the EVIC.
After I connect the battery and I drive aprox 15min the horn goes off....Take out the fuse#1 and drive home.when I shut off the engine the day light light turn off and high beams on....

Ok that stops that theory.

Any CEL codes stored?
So with Fuse #1 removed...you can drive home OK.
Turn off the engine and the Day Running lights turn off but at the same time the High Beams suddenly light up?. Do the High Beams turn OFF after a while or do they stay ON?

Very weird.

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2002 Export CRD

Hi , I just had another test today and did the same... no horn going off (because I took out fuse#1) When I got home I cheched the battery when the engine was runing 14.3V, after I turned off was 12.3V , when disconnected the battery way 12.5V. Look like something is drawing power...I disconnected the battery again
I just noticed that the fuel gauge is at full and should be at half..
I don t see a fuse for fuel gauge I ll try to disconnect the wires from the gauge.
Thank you for support!

I would not worry too much about your battery voltage dropping a bit when connected...there are components like the BCM, PCM,TCM etc. that do draw a bit of current always.

We may later need to measure the current draw using the Amp setting on your multimeter....let me first check what fuse #1 is doing.....is this Fuse #1 under the hood or on the fuse panel inside the cabin?


There is normally a small red LED at the bottom of the Cluster that lights up when you exit the vehicle and lock the doors with the key remote. If you then open the door not with your remote but with the key then this LED flashes and the horn goes off until you disarm it with the key remote.

Maybe there is an error somewhere in that area!

The Clock-spring that carries the horn signal, ABS, speed control etc. from the steering wheel down to the Module may be faulty but do not mess with the Clock-spring or horn button at this time!

Where are you located...USA/Canada or Europe or elswhere?

Have you downloaded the 2005 Jeep KJ Service Manual here:

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

8W is the Wiring Section and the index gives you a Component Location so if you look for Horn you can find the relevant wiring diagram.

The horn basically gets activated by a the Horn Relay which is energized by the horn switch and Clock Spring...….or the Horn Relay can get activated by the BCM which also controls the Headlights etc. The Horn Relay is located on the Junction Block which is the internal fuse panel.
You need to flip this Junction Block over to access several relays...the location of the Horn Relay is shown if you search for Junction Block in the Component Location.

I am more inclined to believe that the BCM is activating the Horn Relay...not the Horn switch.
There is something funny happening as regards the BCM ie. horn is activated and headlights get turned ON! The BCM is plugged onto the rear of the Junction Block (internal fuse panel).

May be worth disconnecting the battery and re-plug the BCM on the Junction Block a few times in case of a bad connection.

If the problems are being caused by the BCM I would expect a CEL to be posted....you need to read out the latest CELs...may point to the problem!

Swap the Horn Relay with an identical one nearby...the relay may be failing!

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2002 Export CRD

I'm in Ontario Canada. I checked the codes and I found code U1421 (communication issue) Taking in consideration that I found the driver side rug wet, I think the lick from sunroof went in BCM area and corroded something. As soon I can I'll take out the junction box with the BCM . Do you know how I take this out?
Thanks

See the instructions in the Factory Service Manual at:
2005JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
See section: ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES 8E - 5

Web site for all manuals:
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

_________________
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Sounds like another connection or ground issue. Recommend check and clean and reconnect all grounds including the one beneath driver side headlight and unplug clean and reconnect ECU and if a 2005 the Front control Module. In addition to whatever the manual says as well as make sure your battery is good with a load test after fully charging.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Hi to everyone!
I just disconnected and engage the BCM connectors, no corrosion noticed. As well disconnected and cleaned the ground below the cabin fuse junction box. Did not have the chance to test yet, 8+ inches of snow...
I'll keep you posted when I can test it.
Thanks for support!

Hope it works (and snow melts soon)!

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Hello,
I took it for a short side today, and works fine for now... I cheched the codes, the U code did not return. I cheched the battery draw and I thin is took high .. 0.2A ! I have to fiind the reason...
Keep you posted
Thanks

To check for battery drain you need to do the following.

Disconnect one of the battery leads and with your digital multimeter set on DC Amps place the meter in series with the battery terminal and the disconnected lead.....does not matter which way the leads are connected with a digital meter but you will need to move the one meter lead from its Black Com position for Volts/Ohms to the Black Amp position....this is normally marked as 10A Fused and another as 300 mA. which is what you will be using.

Do not start the Jeep...you will blow up your meter or blow a fuse in the meter.

Make sure the Radio is OFF and all internal/external lights are OFF and all doors are closed.

The amp reading should be around 0.030 Amps ie. 30 mA. Your reading of 200 mA is much too high!

Pull fuses out one by one...if the current draw does not drastically drop then put that fuse back in place and move to the next one. Start with the fuse box under the hood...Power Distribution Unit (PDU) and then the internal fuse panel ….Junction Block (JB). You need to be sure the internal lights do not stay on while you have a door open.

Once you find which fuse brings about the most current draw when re-inserted you need to climb into the Wiring Diagrams to see what circuit that fuse feeds. Then start disconnecting the different branches ie. Splices..of that circuit to see which branch is causing the current draw.

You will need to disconnect any component on the suspect branch..motors, solenoids, lamps, sensors etc. to see if that component is causing the current draw.

You may have one of the branches shorting to chassis or to another random wire somewhere which is the most likely cause!

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2002 Export CRD

Hello guys!
I started with the fuse box under the hood removing the relays and fuses and was reading 0.16A for each.A change was when I removed F7 (JB Power) and changed from 160mA to 90mA.
Then I moved to cabin junction box and went to zero when I removed #34 ..
I didn't have the chance to start removing the relays from the back of the cabin junction box. I'll try again to remove the whole cabin junction box with BCM if I can. I checked the manual and doesn't explain what is holding in place the cabin JB. I removed 2 screws visible when the door is open but something is still holding..
I'll keep you posted
Thank you for support!

Hello!
Update:
I took out the cabin JB with the BCM, cleaned a little bit of oxidation on pins soldered between the 2 plates with fuses and relays. No visual issue (oxidation on contacts) on the BCM. I checked the current draw with the cabin JB out and the draw was ~100mA…no good. At this point I removed again the fuses in under the hood power center and the draw went down to ~40mA when I removed fuse #5 (20A)-Trans Control Module. Then I installed back the cabin JB and all fuses and I started the car, working fine. I checked the draw and is still ~170-200mA…no good… still work to do…
Looks like only on TCM circuit the draw is around 70mA… plus JB (BCM) another ~70mA plus the normal 40mA… total ~180mA…
Any suggestions, what to start with next will be much appreciated!
Thanks for your support!

Ouch! Difficult to find this one!

Dirty connector contacts or dirty ground points do not cause more current draw.. when engine is off.
These dirty contacts will cause a voltage drop at those points but will not draw more current.

You sure this is a 2005 CRD not the 2006 CRD? The 2006 CRD has a known problem of cables being trapped behind the Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket.

This very much looks like a cable or cables fraying through to ground or to another random wire somewhere and waterlogged harnesses may cause current flow to chassis.

I will go through your findings one at a time whereby pulling a certain fuse out drops the current draw nicely...will involve pulling off all motors, solenoid etc. on that circuit...including Splices.

Some cutting/replacing of wire may be involved.!

I will get back to you shortly!

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2002 Export CRD

OK starting from when you removed Fuse #34 in the Junction Block inside the cabin and current draw went down to zero.

Page 8W-12-32 shows this Fuse #34 15A feeding:

The BCM mounted onto the Junction Block....we will get back to this later!

Connector #C1 feeding the instrument cluster, left and right courtesy lamps.....pull of this connector C1 and see if current drops. Re-plug the connector if no current drop.

Connector #C3 for the Siren..probably for Export models but pull it off in any case and re-plug it.

Connector#C2....feeds lots of things...pull this connector off.
If this #C2 caused a big drop when removed, put it back and pull off connector #C308 to break that line feeding lamps etc. depending if it is Base Model or not.
This connector #C308 is in the rear left column in the cargo area...page 8W-91-1 and 8W-91-6, Light Green Plastic for the plug.

If still a current draw pull off connector C1 on the Radio.

If pulling off C1, C2, C3 on the Junction Block makes no difference then the BCM connector JB 15 is the last suspect. This is shown on 8W-45-2.

Lets see how this goes before we climb any further into the wiring.

I personally think that the BCM is doing its job of activating some solenoid, relay or motor such as a door lock, wiper motor etc. and something along those paths is not happy....not noticable while the alternator is generating voltage but after ignition-off the current drain becomes a problem.
The BCM is described in section 8E.

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2002 Export CRD

OK, looks like I have to go with investigation in 2 directions
#1) Connector 1, 2 (3) from JB fuse 34 disconnecting C1,C2,C3 one at a time and measure the current drop.
This will be the next step as per your recommendation (My mistake, I had all 3 disconnected when I removed ,cleaned the JB..)
#2) I have to investigate the fuse #5 (20A) from under the hood power center circuit (TCM)-this draw ~70mA...
I'll start with #1 this weekend. Thank you again for your help !

Does anyone know what the normal draw should be from the battery with engine off and all doors closed and lights off etc. In other words what is an acceptable draw on normally functioning CRD?

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Approx 0.04A (40mA)