Is it worth it? 05 CRD

CMullin · **Joined:** Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:58 am **Posts:** 19

Hi all! I have an 05 CRD with 188,000 miles. I've never replaced the timing belt. It currently needs a turbocharger and transmission oil cooler for sure. It never warms up & I can't get any warm air in the winter so it probably also needs a new thermostat.

I'm considering purchasing these parts below, but I'm not positive if the ones from carparts.com are the best options/going to fit. I'm on a budget though and these were the best price. If you have any other suggestions for better options please let me know. Looking to purchase asap... or maybe I'll just sell it. Haven't decided yet.

turbocharger: https://www.carparts.com/details/Jeep/L ... 90101.html

transmission oil cooler: https://www.carparts.com/details/Univ/B ... 70255.html

thermostat: https://www.idparts.com/thermostat-oem- ... -2719.html

timing belt kit: https://www.idparts.com/product_info.ph ... ts_id=2721{178}239{14}603

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2020 6:18 pm

Obviously the timing belt needs to be done.
Do it now!

But why the turbo and trans cooler?
Did you diagnose or somebody else?

That trans cooler you listed is just a generic aftermarket part. Not a factory replacement.
It will work. Just know that it’s not a direct replacement.

For the turbo, what exactly is the problem?
There are many turbo problems that are not problems with the actual turbocharger.
At the very least, stick your fingers in the turbo inlet and try to wiggle the shaft.

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

The only good way to answer this question is to figure out how long you may intend to keep the CRD, then weigh the costs of bulletproofing it for the long term against what buying and maintaining a different vehicle would be.

If you are planning on keeping it for the long term, though, I strongly recommend the HDS Model 001 thermostat. Given that the OEM thermostat runs cold, is known to flake out, and may or may not continue to be available in the future, the HDS is a good hedge against future (and present) problems.

I'd also strongly suggest researching that specific turbo as regards manufacturer, reliability, etc. I'm suspicious of it off the bat because $328.18 is really cheap for one of those - a little over double that is what I'd consider to be starting price for something from a known-reliable manufacturer. Just the fact that the manufacturer is listed as 'Replacement' starts alarm bells ringing.

What makes you suspect that it needs a turbo?

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

There is a problem with O.E. thermostat assemblies... they are throwaway parts with a thermostat valve inside that is set to open at too low a temperature for optimum efficiency, power production and reliability of the CRD engine.

O.E. thermostat assemblies are also well known to have a short operating life. so you have to change them out every 50,000 miles or so. This increases service cost a significant amount, because you have to purchase the entire unit and replace it which is a fairly involved job.

The thermostat valve in the O.E. thermostat assembly for North American market CRD engines is set to open up at 176 degrees Fahrenheit. This same assembly for all other markets around the world is set to open up at 195 degrees Fahrenheit.

A 176 opening temperature is set for the North American market because the Environmental Protection Agency has deemed NOx emissions as Public Enemy Number 1, and therefore has ridiculously stringent NOx emission standards. The number 1 method to lower NOx emissions is to lower engine operating temperatures, but this is a counter-productive approach because a lower operating temperature internal combustion engine - especially a diesel engine - is less efficient and will accumulate pollutants inside that engine which usually results in reliability issues down the road.

layback40 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:27 am

At a guess, I would say you are looking at a Chinese knock off turbo. Unless you have a turbo that has failed housings I dont see the point in replacing it. You need to provide much more information.
The comments of the other posters are good advice.
If you had the cash, replacement of the valves would be a good idea.
Is the trans cooler damaged? Or do you have a leaky hose fitting.

CMullin · **Joined:** Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:58 am **Posts:** 19

Thank you all for your advise!

I guess I know the least about the turbo issue... it's been running weak/under boost for a couple months now. At the same time this started happening (lack of power) it also started making a ticking sound. The code that keeps coming up is P0299.

I had a leaky transmission last fall - it was the cooling lines so I had those replaced by my shop. After they finished replacing the hoses and they found the transmission oil cooler was also damaged and leaking so they bypassed it. If they/I knew that ahead of time I would have had them do it when they did the lines.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 2:04 pm

CMullin wrote:

Thank you all for your advise!
I guess I know the least about the turbo issue... it's been running weak/under boost for a couple months now. At the same time this started happening (lack of power) it also started making a ticking sound. The code that keeps coming up is P0299.
I had a leaky transmission last fall - it was the cooling lines so I had those replaced by my shop. After they finished replacing the hoses and they found the transmission oil cooler was also damaged and leaking so they bypassed it. If they/I knew that ahead of time I would have had them do it when they did the lines.

The ticking sound could be bad lifter dampner, bad rocker arm, or a worn cam lobe.

Have you read your actual boost with a gauge or scan gauge? That could tell you a lot.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 4:33 pm

At that mileage and on the original timing belt - there is around an 85% chance that the timing has shifted past the safe zone and one or more rockers have been broken. This is the designed failure mode to protect the valves, BUT with this mileage and likely fully stock... If you would like to guarantee the lifespan of the vehicle to more than the next 25k miles or so, I would strongly advise replacement of the valves too.

I am the traveling CRD tech, this is the ONLY vehicle I work on and I've helped over 110 of them now. Please send me an email (button below) b/c the private message system on the board is not really functional - and I'd be happy to discuss your plans for your Jeep and lay out all your options so you can make an informed decision. If you have the email option enabled on your profile, I'll try to email you too.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

geordi wrote:

At that mileage and on the original timing belt - there is around an 85% chance that the timing has shifted past the safe zone and one or more rockers have been broken. This is the designed failure mode to protect the valves, BUT with this mileage and likely fully stock... If you would like to guarantee the lifespan of the vehicle to more than the next 25k miles or so, I would strongly advise replacement of the valves too.

I am the traveling CRD tech, this is the ONLY vehicle I work on and I've helped over 110 of them now. Please send me an email (button below) b/c the private message system on the board is not really functional - and I'd be happy to discuss your plans for your Jeep and lay out all your options so you can make an informed decision. If you have the email option enabled on your profile, I'll try to email you too.

When he says "THE" he means one of em. They are other mechanics on this forum as well and somes are even certifided ! :juggle:

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 1:52 am

I'm sure that anyone "certifided" can speak for themselves, they don't need you to allude to their existence while tearing down someone who you have never met, who offers online assistance freely and without any request of compensation. If people want to hire me, that is their choice. I'll answer their questions just the same even if they don't. I'll even answer the questions of someone who leads me on and lies to me to get HOURS of my help to work on their engine, with pictures and videos, on the promise of hiring me to finish the work... Then suddenly tells me "Thanks, I think I've got the confidence to do this myself on the rebuild! And then turns around and hires "one of these others" and spends all their time crowing about how wonderful this other person is.

I don't know what I ever did to deserve that, but karma's a real nasty one. Every engine I work on is owned by a happy customer. Not everyone can say that, and I AM the only one that can and does travel without other obligations getting in the way.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

geordi wrote:

I'm sure that anyone "certifided" can speak for themselves, they don't need you to allude to their existence while tearing down someone who you have never met, who offers online assistance freely and without any request of compensation. If people want to hire me, that is their choice. I'll answer their questions just the same even if they don't. I'll even answer the questions of someone who leads me on and lies to me to get HOURS of my help to work on their engine, with pictures and videos, on the promise of hiring me to finish the work... Then suddenly tells me "Thanks, I think I've got the confidence to do this myself on the rebuild! And then turns around and hires "one of these others" and spends all their time crowing about how wonderful this other person is.

I don't know what I ever did to deserve that, but karma's a real nasty one. Every engine I work on is owned by a happy customer. Not everyone can say that, and I AM the only one that can and does travel without other obligations getting in the way.

Geordi, you are for sure a certified "Big mouth"!!!! :dizzy:

And for the Op :Having to do this much work on a high mileage CRD ( on a budget ) would only be viable if you have the skills to tackle the work by yourself in my opinion !
Especially if the one who work on it want you to change more parts than it needs ( like valves or head studs...…..)

Billybob · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 2:36 am

geordi wrote:

I'm sure that anyone "certifided" can speak for themselves, they don't need you to allude to their existence while tearing down someone who you have never met, who offers online assistance freely and without any request of compensation. If people want to hire me, that is their choice. I'll answer their questions just the same even if they don't. I'll even answer the questions of someone who leads me on and lies to me to get HOURS of my help to work on their engine, with pictures and videos, on the promise of hiring me to finish the work... Then suddenly tells me "Thanks, I think I've got the confidence to do this myself on the rebuild! And then turns around and hires "one of these others" and spends all their time crowing about how wonderful this other person is.

I don't know what I ever did to deserve that, but karma's a real nasty one. Every engine I work on is owned by a happy customer. Not everyone can say that, and I AM the only one that can and does travel without other obligations getting in the way.

If I could afford to fly geordi to South Africa and back to give my old 2002 Export CRD a good workover I would! :wink:

He is one of the best contributors here on this forum but Haters are going to Hate!

I could probably teach him a few things about the early Export CRDs where they differ from the USA/Canada models but that would pretty much be redundant knowledge as these old Export models are slowly fading away and are not to be seen in the USA anyhow! :cry:

End of discussion from my side! :roll:

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 9:15 am

I am going to leave this one with this advice, from the way it sounds the maintenance was done... it needs rockers and a timing belt period... that will solve the low boost issue... get should of the person who does mobile repairs as most shops are not qualified to do the job... like the dealer lol... that said, agreed with the thermostat, they fail all the time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 11:38 am

geordi wrote:

I don't know what I ever did to deserve that, but karma's a real nasty one. Every engine I work on is owned by a happy customer. Not everyone can say that, and I AM the only one that can and does travel without other obligations getting in the way.

darn Jim, when you get on a roll you can’t stop can you. Why are you telling two lies in this statement.

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 5:41 pm

geordi wrote:

I'm sure that anyone "certifided" can speak for themselves, they don't need you to allude to their existence while tearing down someone who you have never met, who offers online assistance freely and without any request of compensation. If people want to hire me, that is their choice. I'll answer their questions just the same even if they don't. I'll even answer the questions of someone who leads me on and lies to me to get HOURS of my help to work on their engine, with pictures and videos, on the promise of hiring me to finish the work... Then suddenly tells me "Thanks, I think I've got the confidence to do this myself on the rebuild! And then turns around and hires "one of these others" and spends all their time crowing about how wonderful this other person is.

I don't know what I ever did to deserve that, but karma's a real nasty one. Every engine I work on is owned by a happy customer. Not everyone can say that, and I AM the only one that can and does travel without other obligations getting in the way.

geordi,
Even though I have never met you, the quality of the information you provide on this forum speaks volumes for your knowledge & ability. I have also seen you provide similar quality guidance to the minions & brain dead that frequent social media.

With regard to "certification", it is clear that you may have had a spray from someone who probably needs "certification" from another type of (medical) facility.
There is probably a bit of cabin fever starting to show or have they started letting them out on your side of the pond? :furious:

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 5:58 pm

CMullin wrote:

I had a leaky transmission last fall - it was the cooling lines so I had those replaced by my shop. After they finished replacing the hoses and they found the transmission oil cooler was also damaged and leaking so they bypassed it. If they/I knew that ahead of time I would have had them do it when they did the lines.

Depending on the damage, a good welder could probably repair the cooler in place. Aluminum welding is not that hard with the right equipment.
Replacement of the cooler is problematic as it is integral with the aircon condenser. Assuming its the same as the export ones.
Sad to see this thread has been hijacked by those wishing to feed their ego. Too many try to whiten them self by blackening others.
There has been some good technical advice posted & I hope it has assisted you moving forward.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

layback40 wrote:

CMullin wrote:

I had a leaky transmission last fall - it was the cooling lines so I had those replaced by my shop. After they finished replacing the hoses and they found the transmission oil cooler was also damaged and leaking so they bypassed it. If they/I knew that ahead of time I would have had them do it when they did the lines.

Depending on the damage, a good welder could probably repair the cooler in place. Aluminum welding is not that hard with the right equipment.
Replacement of the cooler is problematic as it is integral with the aircon condenser. Assuming its the same as the export ones.
Sad to see this thread has been hijacked by those wishing to feed their ego. Too many try to whiten them self by blackening others.
There has been some good technical advice posted & I hope it has assisted you moving forward.

You obviously have no clue about welding, especially aluminum !!!!!

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 9:45 pm

layback40 wrote:

CMullin wrote:

I had a leaky transmission last fall - it was the cooling lines so I had those replaced by my shop. After they finished replacing the hoses and they found the transmission oil cooler was also damaged and leaking so they bypassed it. If they/I knew that ahead of time I would have had them do it when they did the lines.

Depending on the damage, a good welder could probably repair the cooler in place. Aluminum welding is not that hard with the right equipment.
Replacement of the cooler is problematic as it is integral with the aircon condenser. Assuming its the same as the export ones.

The transmission cooler lines DO leak, and usually it is from the cooler end as they are press-fit into the cooler and otherwise unsupported. So over time they flex and vibrate and leaks develop. Welding on that super-thin material isn't likely to work, but the easiest and most successful solution is just to slice the metal lines behind the radiator stack, slide some transmission rated hose over the cut ends, and run them to a dedicated external cooler unit that is secured in between the radiator and the intercooler. There's just enough room there for it to hide and be out of the way. Problem solved, permanently and for about $50 in parts.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

geordi wrote:

layback40 wrote:

CMullin wrote:

I had a leaky transmission last fall - it was the cooling lines so I had those replaced by my shop. After they finished replacing the hoses and they found the transmission oil cooler was also damaged and leaking so they bypassed it. If they/I knew that ahead of time I would have had them do it when they did the lines.

Depending on the damage, a good welder could probably repair the cooler in place. Aluminum welding is not that hard with the right equipment.
Replacement of the cooler is problematic as it is integral with the aircon condenser. Assuming its the same as the export ones.

The transmission cooler lines DO leak, and usually it is from the cooler end as they are press-fit into the cooler and otherwise unsupported. So over time they flex and vibrate and leaks develop. Welding on that super-thin material isn't likely to work, but the easiest and most successful solution is just to slice the metal lines behind the radiator stack, slide some transmission rated hose over the cut ends, and run them to a dedicated external cooler unit that is secured in between the radiator and the intercooler. There's just enough room there for it to hide and be out of the way. Problem solved, permanently and for about $50 in parts.

This will work, but you need to cut at the right place( keep the donut on the metal line) and use the right clamp.

Check this tread viewtopic.php?f=5&t=91050

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2020 11:05 pm

PZKW108 wrote:

layback40 wrote:

CMullin wrote:

I had a leaky transmission last fall - it was the cooling lines so I had those replaced by my shop. After they finished replacing the hoses and they found the transmission oil cooler was also damaged and leaking so they bypassed it. If they/I knew that ahead of time I would have had them do it when they did the lines.

Depending on the damage, a good welder could probably repair the cooler in place. Aluminum welding is not that hard with the right equipment.
Replacement of the cooler is problematic as it is integral with the aircon condenser. Assuming its the same as the export ones.
Sad to see this thread has been hijacked by those wishing to feed their ego. Too many try to whiten them self by blackening others.
There has been some good technical advice posted & I hope it has assisted you moving forward.

You obviously have no clue about welding, especially aluminum !!!!!

Having successfully undertaken such a weld repair in the past for a friend, I would suggest you slither back under your rock. If you cant contribute with positive suggestions, best save your data.

Is it worth it? 05 CRD

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