Glowshift gauges

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Wed Jun 03, 2020 11:47 pm

So I bought a Glowshift 3 in 1 guage and will need to drill and tap forthe boost sensor and a EGT probe.
Tried doing a search and the search feature is not working.

Anyone have any pic's on where they drilled and tapped for these two?

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2020 4:11 pm

Boost is where the intake elbow is. Egt is drilled in the exhaust manifold on cyl #3... You can obviously choose whatever location for Egt, but for me it was the easiest way to drill there. But use plenty grease and drill slow, so you can stick all the metal shavings in the grease. Same for boost. Then thread/tap them same way. If you have a boost that is analog, you need some sort of a damper, to avoid pulsation from the valve. Wwdiesel knows exactly the name, he told me to get it a million years ago when I did the mod (thanks again btw!).

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2020 4:57 pm

The damper for analog gauges is called a snubber, you can find them online in different sizes.
I did not have to use a snubber on my Glowshift turbo boost gauge, but the analog fuel pressure gauge did require one.

What Is A Pressure Snubber:> https://www.directmaterial.com/what-is- ... re-snubber

Another good location for a boots gauge connection:
Drill out the threaded boss next to the engine dipstick. It is a blind threaded hole so all you have to do is drill a small 1/8" hole all the way into the intake and then rethread it to 1/8" pipe thread.

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2020 5:51 pm

Now WW its not like you to get terminology incorrect!
From the location, your boost gauge is actually a charge gas pressure gauge. A boost gauge measures ex the turbo.
Snubbers work well, I find it easier to just fill the air line to the gauge with oil. Works a treat. Fluid filled lines (& gauges) are very common in industrial applications to dampen pressure fluctuations.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2020 6:37 pm

IDK what a “charge gas pressure gauge” is but my boost gauge is plumbed into the intake elbow.
Removing the elbow allowed me to drill and tap it on the bench without worrying about metal shavings going into the engine.

My boost gauge is a VDO mechanical, 0-30 psi.
Seems to work just fine without a snubber.
Or maybe I just don’t know any better.

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2020 7:26 pm

layback40 wrote:

Now WW its not like you to get terminology incorrect!
From the location, your boost gauge is actually a charge gas pressure gauge. A boost gauge measures ex the turbo.
Snubbers work well, I find it easier to just fill the air line to the gauge with oil. Works a treat. Fluid filled lines (& gauges) are very common in industrial applications to dampen pressure fluctuations.

So are you saying that the location in the photos is the wrong place for a proper boost tap?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2020 10:18 pm

layback40 wrote:

Now WW its not like you to get terminology incorrect!
From the location, your boost gauge is actually a charge gas pressure gauge. A boost gauge measures ex the turbo.
Snubbers work well, I find it easier to just fill the air line to the gauge with oil. Works a treat. Fluid filled lines (& gauges) are very common in industrial applications to dampen pressure fluctuations.

You confused what I stated. The turbo boost pressure gauge is plumbed directly into the intake manifold!
And yes, I do have a fuel pressure gauge reading fuel pressure going to the CP3 injection pump after it leaves a 2 micron fuel filter. I do have an intank lift pump.
And the fuel pressure gauge does have a snubber on on it. An Oil filled gauge would work just fine, but filling the impulse line to the fuel pressure gauge with oil would be useless.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Jun 07, 2020 12:15 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

layback40 wrote:

Now WW its not like you to get terminology incorrect!
From the location, your boost gauge is actually a charge gas pressure gauge. A boost gauge measures ex the turbo.
Snubbers work well, I find it easier to just fill the air line to the gauge with oil. Works a treat. Fluid filled lines (& gauges) are very common in industrial applications to dampen pressure fluctuations.

You confused what I stated. The turbo boost pressure gauge is plumbed directly into the intake manifold!
And yes, I do have a fuel pressure gauge reading fuel pressure going to the CP3 injection pump after it leaves a 2 micron fuel filter. I do have an intank lift pump.
And the fuel pressure gauge does have a snubber on on it. An Oil filled gauge would work just fine, but filling the impulse line to the fuel pressure gauge with oil would be useless.

Thats smart, having a gauge reading the cp3 line pressure post filtration. I set mine before the filter and I'm thinking to relocate.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jun 07, 2020 1:35 pm

thermorex wrote:

Thats smart, having a gauge reading the cp3 line pressure post filtration. I set mine before the filter and I'm thinking to relocate.

Picture 1 shows the post 2 micron filter fuel pressure gauge and how it is plumbed.
Picture 2 shows the 2 micron fuel filter kit I can supply if anyone wants to add this to their CRD. (Note: you must have lift pump installed to run duel filters)

Picture 1

Picture 2

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2020 1:09 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Another good location for a boots gauge connection:
Drill out the threaded boss next to the engine dipstick. It is a blind threaded hole so all you have to do is drill a small 1/8" hole all the way into the intake and then rethread it to 1/8" pipe thread.

So is the oil dip stick movable? It's right in the way to drill the boss. I pushed on it a bit to see if it would flex out of the way but it's pretty solid.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2020 2:33 am

Huhhhhh wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Another good location for a boots gauge connection:
Drill out the threaded boss next to the engine dipstick. It is a blind threaded hole so all you have to do is drill a small 1/8" hole all the way into the intake and then rethread it to 1/8" pipe thread.

So is the oil dip stick movable? It's right in the way to drill the boss. I pushed on it a bit to see if it would flex out of the way but it's pretty solid.

There is a brace on the dipstick tube that you can take loose and it will allow you to move the tube over slightly.

I think I just bent mine over just a little, it did not take much.

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

I drilled my egt probe from below, using a low clearance drill. I don’t have a boost gauge but is there a reason why you guys don’t use the cars software to display that along with fuel pressure?

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2020 12:35 pm

Jett wrote:

I drilled my egt probe from below, using a low clearance drill. I don’t have a boost gauge but is there a reason why you guys don’t use the cars software to display that along with fuel pressure?

What is a low clearance drill? I have a skid plate I need to remove before I can even see if there's access from below. It looks like a major pain in the booty to remove a ton of stuff to get access to drill from above.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2020 12:44 pm

Jett wrote:

I drilled my egt probe from below, using a low clearance drill. I don’t have a boost gauge but is there a reason why you guys don’t use the cars software to display that along with fuel pressure?

What you see on boost pressure through the ECM is somewhat delayed and you are having to depend on two electronic devices and WiFi to monitor.
A mechanical boost gauge is instantaneous and uses no on board computer resources. Picture 1

As to fuel pressure, there is NO fuel pressure signal on the fuel pressure feed to the CP3 injection pump in the ECM.
That is why a mechanical fuel pressure gauge is required when you add an intank lift pump and a secondary 2 micron fuel filter between the OEM fuel filter and the injection pump. Picture 2
Diesel fuel is the ONLY thing that lubricates the the internals of the CP3 injection pump and it also lubricates the injectors so low fuel pressure and / or air in the fuel system could cost you an injection pump or a stalled engine on the side of the road, starting problems, etc... There are hundreds of posts in LOST about air in fuel system problems, so adding a lift pump is one of the top priority mods for the Jeep CRD next to EGR disabling or total removal.

Picture 1

Picture 2

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2020 2:36 pm

Jett wrote:

I don’t have a boost gauge but is there a reason why you guys don’t use the cars software to display that along with fuel pressure?

I installed a autometer fuel rail pressure gauge.
Its electronic, but like the mechanical boost gauge, its response is faster than what you see through TorquePro.
Its been very helpful in diagnosing fuel system issues.

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2020 10:24 pm

Trying to post install pictures from Photo Bucket with no luck. Whats the trick to get photos to show up?

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

Huhhhhh wrote:

Trying to post install pictures from Photo Bucket with no luck. Whats the trick to get photos to show up?

https://imgur.com

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2020 11:05 pm

Another good one:
https://postimages.org/

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2020 12:34 am

Started the install today. The coolant sensor was a no brainer.

Had to unbolt the dipstick bracket and push the dipstick out of the way to drill and tap the 1/8-27 thread. Letter R (.339) stubby drill to the bottom of the blind hole already in the boss. Tapped and cleared out all the chips before drilling 1/8 all the way through. Used grease on the drill bit to help chips to stick to it.

Had to take off the skid plate to see if I could access the bottom of the manifold. Good news, there is the target location.

Bad news, need an 18 inch long drill extension to reach up in there to drill.
Good news, I'm a machinist so I whip one out real quick and get back to business.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2020 1:03 am

Lookin Good! :wink:

Glowshift gauges

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