Is it worth it? 05 CRD

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

Depending on the damage, a good welder could probably repair the cooler in place. Aluminum welding is not that hard with the right equipment.
Replacement of the cooler is problematic as it is integral with the aircon condenser. Assuming its the same as the export ones.
Sad to see this thread has been hijacked by those wishing to feed their ego. Too many try to whiten them self by blackening others.
There has been some good technical advice posted & I hope it has assisted you moving forward.[/quote]

You obviously have no clue about welding, especially aluminum !!!!![/quote]

Having successfully undertaken such a weld repair in the past for a friend, I would suggest you slither back under your rock. If you cant contribute with positive suggestions, best save your data.[/quote]

This is the stupidest thing I've seen on this forum :ROTFL:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2020 7:34 am

Welding this is very difficult with any equiptment and just as likely to make it unrepairable as fix it not to mention unless you do it yourself probably cost $30 or more and a shop will likely want it removed. Many shops won't even attempt to weld this type of thing. It is more likely to work if its the line connection since thicker there.

You could try the allumaloy "aluminum solder" type rods yourself but it must be very clean.

Personally I would NOT attempt to have it welded by a shop . I would either try the rubber hoses or aftermarket cooler but if you remove it and can try it yourself why not you have very little to loose.

CMullin · **Joined:** Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:58 am **Posts:** 19

Thanks everyone for weighing in here. You've all been a great help. I wrote the take homes below. Any other suggestions are welcome!

I love my jeep, but this might be too much for me to do myself. I'm curious, how much is this jeep worth if I were to sell it as is?
FYI I'm located in Connecticut so if anyone who was offering to work on this covers this location you can send me a pm. I'm still weighing my options.

Take homes:
It needs:
1. Rockers (top end rebuild) and timing belt kit will solve the low boost issue
2. Get the HDS Model 001 thermostat as a replacement
3. Fix transmission oil cooler - The easiest and most successful solution is just to slice the metal lines behind the radiator stack, slide some transmission rated hose over the cut ends, and run them to a dedicated external cooler unit that is secured in between the radiator and the intercooler. There's just enough room there for it to hide and be out of the way. Problem solved, permanently and for about $50 in parts. - This will work, but you need to cut at the right place (keep the donut on the metal line) and use the right clamp. Check this tread viewtopic.php?f=5&t=91050
It might need(?):
4. Valves
5. Head studs
Don't need:
6. Turbocharger

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 23, 2020 8:03 pm

I see no answers as to worth in a few days so I will take a stab at it. A bulletproofed so to speak CRD with 188,000 miles would maybe sell for $7500 to $8000 (even though probably worth $10,000 or more to owner) with decent tires brakes and nl maintenance items etc. and should be around another 150,000 miles or more.

The cost to do the bulletproofing (mostly the things you outlined) depends on how much you do yourself. Doing almost all yourself with a machine shop changing valves and checking head about $2000 and likely more than 20 hours labor. Paying someone else to do it closer to $4000 or more if they dont mark up parts etc.

If it just needed bulletproofing but ran fine now and no significant rust body damage you would likely get $5,000 to $6.000 from anyone knowing they could do Timing Belt things themselves.

Then comes the problem. It isn't running good now and no guarantee what it would need so you would likely get $4000 or less selling it as is. If I were buying to fix up and keep myself probably about $3000 to $4000 depending on distance to come get and condition tires etc.

For me (and I am not interested) or someone that might buy to fix up and sell probably about $2500 to $3000 at most if they can make round trip to pick up in one long driving day say 12 hours total. Maybe as low as $2000.

I realize thats not what you probably want to hear but thats kinda the reality of it.

Any other opinions entirely welcome even encouraged I would kinda like to hear other opinions myself. At one time I even thought about fixing one up at a time and leasing them or doing the online rent a car type thing but I thought better of it.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:23 pm

I WISH the sale market supported your numbers - for fixed or otherwise - but it just isn't there. Best condition private sale might be 7k, but there are more than a few in great shape not selling for 5500 right now on the CRD FB group.

Not running, it is a complete gamble for any buyer - not commenting on anyone specifically, but the seller wants to sell for a reason, and they are NOT likely to give a buyer all those dirty details... Any used vehicle is very much "Caveat Emptor" in all cases. Just the way it is. Not running.... TOP is likely 2500, 1000-1500 more likely.

Worth more to fix it in all cases, at least then you can drive it and know it works - and the full bulletproofing is for 200k+ miles, (100 on the belt) which will basically outlive the chassis if it takes another 15 years to run another 200k miles.

CMullin · **Joined:** Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:58 am **Posts:** 19

I sold it for around that price

bentrod · **Posted:** Mon Jul 20, 2020 6:44 pm

casm wrote:

The only good way to answer this question is to figure out how long you may intend to keep the CRD, then weigh the costs of bulletproofing it for the long term against what buying and maintaining a different vehicle would be.

If you are planning on keeping it for the long term, though, I strongly recommend the HDS Model 001 thermostat. Given that the OEM thermostat runs cold, is known to flake out, and may or may not continue to be available in the future, the HDS is a good hedge against future (and present) problems.

I'd also strongly suggest researching that specific turbo as regards manufacturer, reliability, etc. I'm suspicious of it off the bat because $328.18 is really cheap for one of those - a little over double that is what I'd consider to be starting price for something from a known-reliable manufacturer. Just the fact that the manufacturer is listed as 'Replacement' starts alarm bells ringing.

What makes you suspect that it needs a turbo?

What you said!
The HDS Model 001 thermostat is awesome. I've changed 3 OE ones in 130K - junk! I HATE doing that job. Now with the HDS Model 001 a thermostat change is 1,2,3 just like the good ol days. Fixed - for the last time for good.

Jett · **Joined:** Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:07 am **Posts:** 250

No car ever “dies” they just reach a point where the juice isn’t worth the squeeze. You can wrap a Ferrari 250gto around a telephone pole and it will be repaired to as new condition, because it’s that valuable.
So it’s really impossible to say if it’s worth it. However, the liberty crd fills a niche that is unoccupied in this country (USA) as it’s the only diesel powered compact SUV that was offered in modern times. So, it depends largely on how much that appeals to you

Is it worth it? 05 CRD

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