P0093 / P0193 Car won't start now after stalling in limpmode

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Hi,
Here's my issue and would greatly appreciate some input before taking it in.

2006 CRD
114K miles
updated filter head with hand pump
new fuel filter
NOW, new fuel pressure sensor
NOW, new fuel sender lift pump from Sasquatch (just installed after problem)

Here's what happened and the current status:
Was driving in the mountains with a small trailer, car went into limp mode. Pulled over, car still running, pumped filter head a few times, wailed on the throttle and got back on the road..thinking perhaps there was some air in there since I had just replaced the fuel filter. Went limp again after a few miles. Swapped the relatively new filter with a new filter and re-bled the filter head. No start. Towed home.

Did some research and read the thread here about the P0093 code. Ordered the lift pump from sasquatch and a new fuel pressure sender. Both installed. No start.

Other research suggested that it's highly unlikely to be the high pressure fuel pump itself....but now what?

Thanks in advance.
steve

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 10, 2024 10:31 pm

Have you tried cracking open one of the injectors fuel feed lines to see if you are getting fuel to the injector?
Don't take a lot to make this engine run, if it spins over and has fuel and air, it should start, if one of them is missing you have got to find out why.
:POPCORN:

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

WWDiesel wrote:

Have you tried cracking open one of the injectors fuel feed lines to see if you are getting fuel to the injector?
Don't take a lot to make this engine run, if it spins over and has fuel and air, it should start, if one of them is missing you have got to find out why.
:POPCORN:

Haven't cracked a hard line yet. Will do. Thanks for the tip.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Mon Aug 19, 2024 12:09 pm

Did you clear the codes? It may not start without clearing them. Also if you are saying you replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Solenoid on the back of the fuel rail I hope you removed the rail and put it in a vice before doing the R&R otherwise your going to have problems. Also make sure you didn't get the #4 injector plug mixed up with the FRPS plug as they are the same type and relatively close to one another. Lastly, like WW said, you may need to crack an injector or 2 to get all the air out

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Thanks for the advice!

No, I didn't remove the FP solenoid, just the FP sensor...on the left side facing the fuel filter head.

I'll try clearing codes and cracking a line next. My son had to borrow the battery for a week so I haven't had a chance to mess with it.

I haven't messed with any injectors/plugs ...or anything else yet. So far, just the new in tank fuel pump, fuel pressure sensor, and new filter.

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Dern.....cracked some lines, got some fuel flow, no startie. Cleared the codes, tried again, no start.

Couldn't crack #4 because...well....that's a witch back there I tell you. How in the hell does anyone get back there anyway? Jesus.

I'm almost ready to give up and take it to Jeep.....where I will have to give up my left nut. Not that I need it. Just that they will gladly take it.

Any other thoughts from you fine people?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 24, 2024 10:30 pm

Have you checked all your wiring harness and especially the one going to the sensor real close?

From the FSM wrote:

P0193 -- Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor – high input Wiring short to positive, FRP sensor

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Thanks, will look again.

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

So I've combed through the wiring and all looks fine.

I gave up and had it towed to the jeep dealer. This is a CRD typical calamity...especially since I'm in California and there aren't many out here..nor any indy shops with knowledge.

Dealer service called and said the battery was dead and they wanted $440 for new battery and install. True, I knew the battery was weak. So I grabbed my spare and dropped it off for the mere installation fee of $69....because they wouldn't let me put it in.

Been there several days and the service guy called today to tell me that the PCM is frozen and non-responsive....and that they're discontinued. ...so they're stuck. He also mentioned that all four injectors were at less than 1 ohm....so likely would need to be replaced...pending a new PCM install and recheck. He put the ball back in my court but said they would not install any aftermarket units...only OEM. They will not source one for me.

I've sourced a refurbished PCM from Flagship online but they want $1,650 for it, fully programmed to my VIN. Part number 56044776AB...or BB.

Any thoughts and/or advice is greatly appreciated. I feel a little stuck and am hesitant to keep throwing money at it....when I'll be at $2,000 with no real answers.

Thanks in advance.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2024 10:36 pm

Keep in mind, ECM failure on these vehicles are super rare and almost unheard of.
Usually a no start problem is found to be something other than the ECM
There are many components and sensors that play into the running of this engine.
If the engine spins over, and you have adequate fuel rail pressure, then something is preventing the injectors from firing.
And that is what you must find the cause of.

If the engine spins over and is in time, and you have adequate fuel rail pressure, and the injectors are getting a signal to fire, the engine should start and run.
There are so many things that can cause a NO Start condition other than the ECM, fuel, electrical, etc...
You must rule each one out to find the Root Cause!

See this:

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

WWDiesel wrote:

Keep in mind, ECM failure on these vehicles are super rare and almost unheard of.
Usually a no start problem is found to be something other than the ECM
There are many components and sensors that play into the running of this engine.
If the engine spins over, and you have adequate fuel rail pressure, then something is preventing the injectors from firing.
And that is what you must find the cause of.

If the engine spins over and is in time, and you have adequate fuel rail pressure, and the injectors are getting a signal to fire, the engine should start and run.
There are so many things that can cause a NO Start condition other than the ECM, fuel, electrical, etc...
You must rule each one out to find the Root Cause!

See this:

As usual, thanks for this. I definitely don't trust the capability of this dealer. My gut is to get the truck back and continue tinkering. I will say though, I'm on my second ECM. Many years ago....maybe 2008ish, while still under warranty, the ECM failed and was replaced. If there was a competent indy shop within a few hundred miles, I'd take it to them. Hmm......

rankom · **Posted:** Sun Sep 22, 2024 6:28 pm

if you're losing fuel rail pressure you may try injector block-off tool and cap one at a time and see if it will start sometimes these injectors do fail

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Sun Sep 22, 2024 10:58 pm

We have traveling CRD mechanics you should contact. There is a group on Facebook that can help as well. Sorry but I don't frequent this forum much anymore otherwise I'd have told you not to go to the dealership. They are idiots. I wouldn't trust them with my lawn mower. Sounds like your issue is electrical and there are SO many things that could be the problem. Did you replace the FRP sensor with an OEM one? These rigs don't like cheap knockoffs.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/liberty ... tid=NSMWBT

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Swapped crankshaft sensor, no start.
Pulled injectors to take a look and have tested. Shop says they work great but the resistance shows 4ohms on each.
On Facebook, folks say the spec should be 8-12 ohms.
Is it possible that 4 ohms is the problem?
I don't know what a low ohm reading indicates.....could it be the solenoid is not letting the injector work properly?
thanks.

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Re-installed injectors and had it towed to All Bay Diesel. We'll see what they come up with.
Fingers crossed. Either success....or I drag it into the desert and burn it.
This will be the last time this little ugly mother effer yanks my chain.

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Okay, so these guys came up with:
P2149 Injector Group 2 Supply Circuit
P0203 Injector 3 Fault
P2146 Injector 1 Fault

With that and a handful of other diagnostics, they seem relatively convinced that a new set of injectors is the ticket.

All injectors have a resistance reading of 4 ohms. They say that's low. I've asked several times on the forum for someone to verify that ohms should be between 8-12...and have not heard anything. Can anyone here verify with certainty and what do you think about the diagnosis.

I appreciate the thoughts very much.

Should I have them move #3 injector to another location like #2 to verify it's the injector? ...in other words if it moves from #3 to #2...then obviously it's the injector.

Again, I combed through all wiring and could not find any shorts.
Crank shaft sensor replaced
Fuel pressure sensor replaced
Fuel lift pump installed
Filter head is fine, new filter
Cleaned all grounds, especially behind left headlamp

03black · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2025 7:44 pm

Have you contacted an Bosh diesel injector rebuilder to get the answer? They should be able to tell you what the resistance should be. Oregon Fuel injection is one place that people have used here on LOST and had good results with but any diesel injector rebuilder should be able to help you out. Typically I thought of an injector as either ON or OFF to spray the fuel but I don't know. If the engine is getting the right amount of fuel pressure, it should run. Are you sure its a fuel problem and not a timing problem? Timing pins for the exhaust and intake cams and the flywheel should all go in easily. Just spit balling...

On a side note...while not necessary to do, but take note of which injector came out of what spot so you can put them back in the same location. The code numbers are on top of the injectors. Again not necessary to do as the engine will run if they are not put back in the same location. Its only for a VERY minor fuel trim that the ECM controls.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2025 11:13 pm

I have a set of spare injectors at my shop, I will read the ohms for each one and post them for you tomorrow.

New Bosch Injector Mopar: 5159970AA Bosch No:0445110217 2 wires -- Full time ground: No

stevegsmith · **Joined:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:35 pm **Posts:** 24

Thank you both!

03black, yes, they've been tested at a diesel shop and came back with positive results...yet ohms at 4. The shop said they could not find the spec so they weren't able to verify the resistance.

WWDiesel, please post your findings. Very much appreciated!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2025 10:09 pm

Measured all four spare injectors that I have on hand. All four measured exactly 00.4 ohms using a Fluke digital multimeter.

Hope this helps you out? :POPCORN:

P0093 / P0193 Car won't start now after stalling in limpmode

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