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 Post subject: Replacing Ball-joints.
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:02 pm 
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I just got my Moogs from Al this morning and went out to rent all of the parts and pullers I needed. I was wanting to make sure they gave me the right stuff. At first they brought out a pickle fork to remove the tierods. I sent them back after a "puller" and this is what they brought back.

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Here is what they gave me to press the ball-joint out of the spindle with:
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I guess I just keep going through those until I find one that fits? It doesnt have a list of what fits what.

Here is the joint and the sticker! I love stickers!

Image

Each joint came with 2 nuts for the balljoints and 1 for the tie-rod which locks, am I right on that? Or does the locking nut go on the lower moog?

Ill post pics after the rain stops and I get it done. I just washed one of the jeeps and its in the garage, so I cant pull it out. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:53 pm 
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YOu shouldn't need a puller or press for the tie-rod ends, just smack the knuckle where it mounts and it should pop out pretty easily. At least that trick worked on the ones I have worked on. That press kit looks pretty decent, if the span of the c-clap portion is wide enough you just might find the combo of spacers you need to get it done. I opted to just let the local Pep-boys press mine out and new ones in for less than $70 for both. While I waited I went back home and took more stuff apart and ate lunch.
HMPH, Al owes me sticker! :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 10:12 pm 
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JJsKJ wrote:
YOu shouldn't need a puller or press for the tie-rod ends, just smack the knuckle where it mounts and it should pop out pretty easily. At least that trick worked on the ones I have worked on. That press kit looks pretty decent, if the span of the c-clap portion is wide enough you just might find the combo of spacers you need to get it done. I opted to just let the local Pep-boys press mine out and new ones in for less than $70 for both. While I waited I went back home and took more stuff apart and ate lunch.
HMPH, Al owes me sticker! :wink:


I like to do everything by myself, I do not trust anyone to touch my jeep.

I also like to use pullers on everything. Im afriad that beating on them with a hammer could cause pre-mature death, and I am really getting tired to taking this thing apart. Its my 3rd time. :?

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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 10:22 pm 
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It looks like you have all the correct tools to do the install,you may have to bang on the spindle for the upper balljoint(I couldn't fit a puller between the cv shaft and balljoint to us one)but it only took 3 decent smacks with a 30 oz deadblow and it poped right out.Also you may need a big puller for the cv shaft,I've heard they get a little rusted in the splines and are a pain to get them out of the bearings,you may get lucky though.The best of luck and the MOOG's are so much better than the factory junk LBJ's!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 10:50 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
It looks like you have all the correct tools to do the install,you may have to bang on the spindle for the upper balljoint(I couldn't fit a puller between the cv shaft and balljoint to us one)but it only took 3 decent smacks with a 30 oz deadblow and it poped right out.Also you may need a big puller for the cv shaft,I've heard they get a little rusted in the splines and are a pain to get them out of the bearings,you may get lucky though.The best of luck and the MOOG's are so much better than the factory junk LBJ's!!


CV shaft? I didnt know I needed to pull it? I thought it would just come off after I took the big nut off? Do you happen to know what size that thing is?

I used the biggest puller in that first pic to get the top balljoint. I unhooked the sway bar and put some weight on the suspension to give me some more room to work with, popped right off.

Ohh, and everytime I pop a joint out, it scares the crap out of me! Its so loud! :lol:

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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
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-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 11:15 pm 
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Well if you are replacing the LBJ's the spindle needs to come off the vehicle so yes you have to slide the cv shaft out of the spindle bearings,I've just heard that sometimes they get a little rusted and need some luving to come out(do not use a hammer!A big 2 prong puller will work).The big nut is 35mm,I ordered one from carquest and it ran me $10.99 and it's a 1/2" drive deepwell impact spindle nut socket(it says it's for gm front wheel drive cars).It's kinda hard to find them 35mm deepwell sockets to,not many places stock that size.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:35 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Well if you are replacing the LBJ's the spindle needs to come off the vehicle so yes you have to slide the cv shaft out of the spindle bearings,I've just heard that sometimes they get a little rusted and need some luving to come out(do not use a hammer!A big 2 prong puller will work).The big nut is 35mm,I ordered one from carquest and it ran me $10.99 and it's a 1/2" drive deepwell impact spindle nut socket(it says it's for gm front wheel drive cars).It's kinda hard to find them 35mm deepwell sockets to,not many places stock that size.


Oh yea, I knew it had to come off. I just didnt know how hard it would be to get off. My dad has tons of sockets lying around, I hope he has a 35mm!!

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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:07 pm 
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I found a socket to fit the nuts, they didnt seem very tight at all? Someone told me to torque them to 100ftlbs but I do not believe thats what they were torqued at. Does anyone know what they should be torqued to?

This has turned out to be a very big job. Its taken most of the day to get one done and I just started on the other side. This press they gave me doesnt seem to be the best of them. If I had an impact wrench Im sure it would work much better.

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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:15 pm 
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Yes the front spindle(cv) nut's are torqued to 100 lb/ft,not having a impact sucks they make most jobs a real breeze.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:33 pm 
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Do you all believe a torn boot would be a problem? It must of gotten caught when i was pressing it in. Its not a really bad tare but it makes me really mad. Its right up on where the boot is clamped onto the joint. Not where the grease comes out if you put to much in. I put some rtv on it but it was kinda hard to get to with the suspension maxed out, its on the back side. When I get the wheels on Ill drop it down and put some more on it.

Is it possible to replace just the boot on these things without pressing the joint back out? Or can I even get just the boot?

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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:45 pm 
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yes, you can replace just the boot and I would suggest it. Cuz it will dry out and the bearings will fail and you'll have to pull it all.

that sucks, good work though.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:55 pm 
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krazz1e wrote:
yes, you can replace just the boot and I would suggest it. Cuz it will dry out and the bearings will fail and you'll have to pull it all.

that sucks, good work though.


Do you know where I could get one Krazzle?

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Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:12 am 
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I'm not sure the part # but I would suspect the dealer. You might be able to find a generic boot at like napa. you'll have to do some digging, but as I said, it's worth it cuz when it dry's up you'll be doing a cv swap and it will cost you more $$$.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 11:40 am 
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krazz1e wrote:
I'm not sure the part # but I would suspect the dealer. You might be able to find a generic boot at like napa. you'll have to do some digging, but as I said, it's worth it cuz when it dry's up you'll be doing a cv swap and it will cost you more $$$.


This is the boot on the balljoint krazzle, Thank god its not the CV boot!! I would really be shooting myself! I can keep grease in the balljoint for now. I asked jeepin AL about it but hes not gotten back to me yet. Idk if he keeps spare boots or not. Thanks for trying to help though!!

Ohh, and I opened up the old balljoint and the grease was all black and white like water had gotten into them. I believe slade and a couple to many water crossings did it toll there.

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:15 pm 
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ohh ok then. No big deal. They are greasable right? Just make sure you grease em every oil change.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:16 pm 
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krazz1e wrote:
ohh ok then. No big deal. They are greasable right? Just make sure you grease em every oil change.


Yup, there the moogs.

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 12:01 pm 
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Can anyone tell me where I can purchse upper ball joints? Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 1:05 pm 
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To get new factory UBJ's you need to get the complete upper a-arm assembly,the UBJ's are not removable from the factory a-arms.Try Jeepinbyal's upper control arms(only for lifted KJ's though)they have replacible,greaseable balljoints.


Last edited by tjkj2002 on Tue Jul 11, 2006 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 1:17 pm 
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Thanks!


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