The leaking heater plug on the filter is happening to a lot of people. Search for threads on air in fuel. Your dealer is full of hot air.

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2006 Liberty CRD-SOLD
Dynomax 2.5 exhaust

If so - which I'm pretty sure it is - I wish they would add there name to a list (perhaps here in this thread) so some kind of count could be taken.

It would also be benificial if they filed a complaint with the NHTSA.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=16472
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... uel+heater

This should get you started.

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2006 Liberty CRD-SOLD
Dynomax 2.5 exhaust

Mine was leaking at the Heat Sensor...I pointed it out to the dealer and they replaced the entire Fuel filter assmbly...of course they would not replace the fuel filter with a new one...

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

It would seem to me that this is a manufacturing defect. Not only do some just start leaking, but it seems all of us could create the leak by pumping the thing up too much and pushing fuel through the seal-- that does not seem like a good design for something that should be user serviceable. I also don't see a warning about pumping it up too much causing a vehicle fire in the owners manual, but perhaps it is there somewhere.

This will be the next recall, and I am glad as hopefully we get a whole new unit that is air leak free. It is likely that this will get a real fix as this filter setup is still being used on non-U.S. vehicles (new JK's, 07 export Libs and maybe new Liberty's) and not just our rare U.S. spec vehicle.

Mine was leaking as well, I showed the dealer exactly where and waited 10 days for parts.

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2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout

My mechanic and I had a discussion about the situation this morning. I told him about what my dealer was trying to pull. I asked him specifics about what exactly he did when he was servicing the fuel filter. I wanted to have the facts if I was about to do battle with the dealer or DCX. He told me he removed both of the WIF sensor and heater connectors from the front of the assembly so that he could get at the fuel filter to change it. He then depressed the primer pump to see if it was sticking. My mechanic said that he did that because they often go unused and occasionally stick. He wanted to make sure that it worked before he replaced the filter because if he found out that it was stuck after the fact he wouldn't have been able to prime the new filter. If the primer was stuck, it would have been a warranty issue and he wouldn't have been able to do anything with the vehicle at the point if I wanted to fix the problem under warranty. If the primer was stuck, it was better to leave the old filter on the thing that way it would still run and wouldn’t need a tow to the dealer. Anyway, it was when he depressed the primer pump that the fuel spewed out of the heater connector socket. Once that happened and he saw the burnt connector he quit work on it and gave me a call.

My mechanic volunteered to find a dealer to deal with this issue. He figured that he would have better luck talking mechanic to mechanic, or mechanic to service manager, than I would trying to talk a service writer. In other words they wouldn't be able to give him a load of B.S.. He was successful and coordinated the work for me. I'm having DCX roadside assistance take it to this dealer. My mechanic also tried contacting my current dealer (he called their service manager). His call was never returned. My current dealer probably new it was me/my vehicle that he was calling about. That fact that I got into it on the phone with my deale’rs service writer may have had something to do with the no response....

Anyway, it appears that DCX will be taking care of this issue, to include the tow. However, I won't be total convinced until I see it....

That sounds like a very plausible explaination of the events. Tell your dealer to fix the warranty issue...it is a known issue...the mechanic did nothing wrong.

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

I believe that there is a pressure check valve in the system so you can't over pressurize the system (by pumping too much). You should never get fuel leaking through an electrical connector under any circumstance - even if the service is performed by a monkey...



DCX should definetly do something about it... Reporting the issue to the NHTSA might help ensure that this happens.

After this incident... I don't think they'll be my dealer anymore...

Idon't know. If you pump the thing long enough and hard enough, it will firm up. Maybe he didn't know when to say when.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

The primer pump actually displaces fuel and builds pressure when you release the plunger. The return spring does the work and takes the human factor out of it. If you put a prybar behind the plunger and pried it out you might be able to build enough pressure to cause a leak, but I doubt it. Pretty sure it is a diaphragm pump. If so, the diaphragm is usually the weak link in the chain. The seal around the heater connectors was defective on mine. It is either a simple case of defective product or a misapplied material - possibly lacking resistance to ULSD or BioD.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Another example of "service writer" stupidity It's very contagious and spreads rapidly at their weekly "how do we deny warranty claims" meetings

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Then why does it get "hard" when you push in on it?

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

I don't know. That part would require destructive disassembly. I did notice that mine pumped fuel out the bleeder when I release the plunger, not when I push it. If the thing is designed so poorly that it can be damaged by pumping it too many times, they can just keep replacing them under warranty. If a service writer told me I made it leak by using it, he'd be the talk of the ER when they removed it from his arse! The seal in there looks to be some sort of elastomer. It is not an O ring or a rubber gland. It is some kind of liquid goop they have put in there. The goop either didn't adhere well or it decomposed from heat and or fuel exposure.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k