Skid Plate Mods

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Wed Mar 14, 2007 8:23 am

Any updates on this?

Jeger · **Posted:** Wed Mar 14, 2007 11:21 am

Maximum Carnage wrote:

Any updates on this?

I've got most things tacked into place, just need to do a bit more grinding, and need more time as usual. I have been pretty tied up with a colt to take care of on top of everything else. Maybe I will try to stay a bit after work today and at least get the last few pieces trimmed up and everything tacked into place so I can show how it will look. Does anyone know if you can jack up a liberty by the stock tranny skid plate? I figured that would be a good test after its done.

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:42 pm

Everything is tacked down, need to do a little grinding (didnt V out a few weld areas) sand blast it then weld it up and paint it. Thinking about deep green or just black rustoleum hammered look

Went from 20 Lbs to about 28. Cost about 15 bucks in materials including weld wire. It probably would have took me 2hrs if I could have worked on it straight through, but with only 15 min here and there it takes a lot longer. I may beef up the front mounting points a bit, but (after welding) it is done for now. If I bend this I will just fab one up from scratch.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:48 pm

Looks like it should help out some if you come right down on it, good job

rubigade · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:03 pm

Listen guys, I haven't even had the opportunity to read all the replies so this is to the first one. You and I both know that to cause this much damage, you were moving way too fast. These factory skids are way to hard to dent, much less crush. Remember, these are "skid" plates... not "landing" plates! I just came back from the Texas Spur, Jeep Jamboree yesterday. I was THE ONLY KJ there, why I do not know. Anyhow, after seeing what my KJ could do and the way the stock skids performed, I can't believe you'd look to strengthen them beyond what they already are. If you keep abusing this thing like this, be looking for major mechanical failure soon... that is if you aren't already having it.
I'd be surprised if your KJ doesn't have stress fractures elsewhere on it so be looking.
One reply I did read was about your Warranty covering this. I can assure you this has nothing to do with your Factory Warranty. They only cover manufacturers defects in build and proper performance. As a matter of fact, you'd be better off NOT to even show them. Just go order the factory Mopar skids (and tranny pan), install them and don't say a word. Dealers have been known to log "abuse related failure" (they know it when they see it) and decline to cover other later mechanical issues seemingly unrelated because of the "domino effect" occuring from damage like this.
Good luck.

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:38 pm

rubigade wrote:

As a matter of fact, you'd be better off NOT to even show them. Just go order the factory Mopar skids (and tranny pan), install them and don't say a word. Dealers have been known to log "abuse related failure" (they know it when they see it) and decline to cover other later mechanical issues seemingly unrelated because of the "domino effect" occuring from damage like this.

This is so true, my cousin worked at a Hummer & later at a Chevy dealership and they do log stuff like this. When I go to the dealership I clearly don't tell them what I pulled, pushed, ect.. I give a simple explanation and let them take care of fixing it. Of course that was when I was still under warranty. What and how that warranty covers is a different story. I defiantly still want beefier skid. Like I read somewhere in this site you never know when you just might run over a "tire" while on the highway.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:19 pm

rubigade wrote:

Listen guys, I haven't even had the opportunity to read all the replies so this is to the first one. You and I both know that to cause this much damage, you were moving way too fast. These factory skids are way to hard to dent, much less crush. Remember, these are "skid" plates... not "landing" plates! I just came back from the Texas Spur, Jeep Jamboree yesterday. I was THE ONLY KJ there, why I do not know. Anyhow, after seeing what my KJ could do and the way the stock skids performed, I can't believe you'd look to strengthen them beyond what they already are. If you keep abusing this thing like this, be looking for major mechanical failure soon... that is if you aren't already having it.
I'd be surprised if your KJ doesn't have stress fractures elsewhere on it so be looking.
One reply I did read was about your Warranty covering this. I can assure you this has nothing to do with your Factory Warranty. They only cover manufacturers defects in build and proper performance. As a matter of fact, you'd be better off NOT to even show them. Just go order the factory Mopar skids (and tranny pan), install them and don't say a word. Dealers have been known to log "abuse related failure" (they know it when they see it) and decline to cover other later mechanical issues seemingly unrelated because of the "domino effect" occuring from damage like this.
Good luck.

When I'm banging the heck out of my skids I'm never going more than 1-2mph,is that still to fast?The stock skids are really a joke(tranny skid being #1),the front skid and gas tank skid are good to a point.Sorry I use my KJ like many others here do and you need better built skids that will support the whole wieght of the KJ,the only factory skid that will do that is the front skid(only the older one's with the extra bracing and 4 bolt holes).Also according to your sig you have modified skids yourself,what's that about?Oh be thae way good work on the skid mods Jeger,looking good enough to take some abuse!

rubigade · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 4:03 pm

Quote:

When I'm banging the heck out of my skids I'm never going more than 1-2mph,is that still to fast?The stock skids are really a joke(tranny skid being #1),the front skid and gas tank skid are good to a point.Sorry I use my KJ like many others here do and you need better built skids that will support the whole wieght of the KJ,the only factory skid that will do that is the front skid(only the older one's with the extra bracing and 4 bolt holes).Also according to your sig you have modified skids yourself,what's that about?Oh be thae way good work on the skid mods Jeger,looking good enough to take some abuse!

Thanks for lookin at my rig.
Listen, this is just a discussion so don't get offended. My point is this... Skid plates are made to skid/slide over an obstacle. Your damage is simply NOT conducive to skidding. Something round and very hard did the damage to your undercarriage and did it at relative high speed. That's just my observation from years of wheelin'.
As far as MY custom fabbed skid goes, I built it because I cut that little "skirt" off of my lower front bumper and I noticed how visible the underside of my front axle housing was, not to mention my factory wiring harness lume, and thin subframe/core support.
If you were a rock, what would you hit?! If it's visible, it's hit-able, especially with a rock or fallen/leaning stump. In making this skid, I took off the motor skid at a welding shop so I could drill it and mount some nuts to the backside. That way, if necessary, I or any shop could remove the skidplate simply without removing anything else. In drilling the factory cold rolled metal skid plate, the welder broke 2 tungsten carbide tipped bits and burned up a 3rd to no avail. These skid plates start as cold roled flat plate, heated, stamped while hot then quickly dipped in cold cold liquid. This process tempers it to an unreal strength unmatched by anything of similar thickness. Heating it to a very high temperature "softens it". Unfortunately we had to blow through with a torch and weld the nuts on the backside. On the other hand, we only heated it on the short side of the bend (forward facing edge) which kept the portion protecting the primary vulnerability (belly) still very strong. To make a long story short (or longer, whichever), I will complete it when I get my bumper finished.
I know there are exceptions and freak accidents happen. I just saw your pics and mentally pictured you coming down from a small jump and landing on a horizontal pole or post. I hope you don't sacrifice too much ground clearance by mounting that angle on there.
Thanks for the conversation,
Matt

Jeger · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:27 am

I lost a little less than 1/4" clearance with the angle. I used 1/4" X 1" angle. It is actually straddling the center rib and sitting beside the outer "box" type channels. I thought it was a fair compromise.

I dont know the whole story behind the pics of the bent plates at the beginning of the thread. They arent mine or tj's as far as I know, I just asked to see some bent ones and they delivered. I imagine you could bend one if you slipped off of a ledge and landed on a rock. Im sure the KJ can create a lot of force with an 8-10" drop. I really hope there arent too many people that are going off of "jumps" with their KJ :lol:

rubigade · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:12 am

Hey TJKJ, I didn't look at the Avatar before but now that I see which one is yours, I thought it looked great from the first view of it. You have a great ride that looks very tough. I'm just saying, Crap happens, you know?
I agree with Jeger too. As I've stated in a couple of different topics, I just went to a Jamboree, my 1st organized event and my 1st real experience that would test my Renegade, and although it was very hard on the skids, they performed perfectly and as designed. Actually, I was quite surprised how well they performed. I went to my local shop and put it on a lift the day after. The only thing I found bent were the rear control arm mounts, which of course got ground down too. The only problem I saw was the relatively low hanging factory rock rails, which by the way, worked exceptionally well. I've got the deep scrapes/dents to show it. I'll be modifying/replacing the rock rails ASAP though with lower profile ones which hopefully hug the rocker panels tighter. This will give me some better clearance on the side.

riptricket · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:31 am

rubigade can you post pics of your skid mod on here with close-ups? i love your setup on cardomain site, but would love to see more pics!!! thanks

rubigade · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:43 pm

Sure can. Aren't digital cameras awesome!!

On the 3rd pic, you can see I've really just got it tucked up under the plastic bumper cover. I'm in the process of making a bumper which will look pretty stock... but it won't be. Then I'll attach the front of the skid to it via 3 or 4 more bolts, that way it's easily detachable should I or anyone else need to get behind it. You'd be amazed how strong it is just like it is. I'm gonna move the visibly scraped tow hooks and mount clevis style ones in the new bumper. It'll look trick to those who know better and won't look anything to those who don't.

Lastly, if you look on the left side (passenger) of the 4th pic and in the up close 5th pic where that mounting bolt is far off the edge toward the middle, it has to be that way because of the axle mounting bracket. I am gonna build a piece there to cover that and make it out of the same material. I just wanted to try it out first to see if it's necessary.

Hope this helps.
Matt

riptricket · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:13 pm

dude that is perfect for what i want to do! how did you remove that grey plastic piece that is connected to the fascia bumper? i don't want to cut unless i have to...

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:10 pm

This is exactly what anyone who goes off road needs. I would love to build or get my hands on something like this.

rubigade · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 6:43 pm

I totally agree Rip. I just took a Dremel with a little 1" cutoff wheel and cut along the actual transition line on the plastic fascia underneath. Then on the fender sides I just took a piece of chalk and drew a line that I thought would be decent looking while still covering my horn (on the driver's side) and my windshield washer reservoir (on the passenger side). If you don't have a Dremel tool, know that every "modifications expert" needs one!
Here... take a look.

Hope this helps guys.

riptricket · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 6:51 pm

you have no idea how much that helps!!! i am going to try this mod soon. what is the measurements of the steel you used and bolts?

rubigade · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:31 pm

riptricket wrote:

you have no idea how much that helps!!! i am going to try this mod soon. what is the measurements of the steel you used and bolts?

The measurements are 23.5" wide/17" long/ 3/8" thick. Make sure the plate is American made. It won't dent as easy as Mexican steel or others. They have different iron ore content which makes them malleable/bendable and that is not good here. American steel is alot more Rigid which you want for this application. If it dents at all, you could damage your core support, radiator or wire loom.
Also, don't go thicker than 3/8". It will make the front too heavy and you'll have problems with lift and tire fit, especially if you want to add a big heavy bumper. I don't know exactly how much weight is too much but on this little SUV with light duty springs, that should be a concern. You can, by the way, get HD springs like they sell for the CRD but then you begin to sacrefice ride and that defeats the purpose of "function first".
Hope this helps.
Matt

riptricket · **Posted:** Wed Apr 04, 2007 9:54 pm

i took off the front fascia plastic crap yesterday, breaking most of the little rivet type things, and noticed that at highway speeds, the sides where the horns and the other side, where the windshield washer reservoir, the plastic might be suceptible (spelling) to flapping at highway speeds. rubigade, have you noticed any flapping or any noise at all? Thanks!

rubigade · **Posted:** Thu Apr 05, 2007 12:25 am

riptricket wrote:

i took off the front fascia plastic crap yesterday, breaking most of the little rivet type things, and noticed that at highway speeds, the sides where the horns and the other side, where the windshield washer reservoir, the plastic might be suceptible (spelling) to flapping at highway speeds. rubigade, have you noticed any flapping or any noise at all? Thanks!

I don't know how far up you went on the inner fender exactly but I think I only took out 1 plastic rivet on each side and I cut around the other. I've seen several KJ owners that have cut their fender flares way up high causing the potential "flapping", which I did not do so, to my knowledge I have no flapping. I tried to keep as much factory fender flare/inner fender support as I possibly could for just such reasons. I also had to make and install little U shaped brackets to reinforce my plastic bumper cover so it wouldn't flap or rattle. I attached it to the inner fender sort of up high in the bumper cover. Very tough to get to but I did it nonetheless.

riptricket · **Posted:** Thu Apr 05, 2007 12:27 am

any pics of those u-shaped mounts?

Skid Plate Mods

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