Yep - now, just imagine, if you will, all that stuff packed in the intake plenum, all the way to the intake valves - pull your MAP sensor and clean it, for a real sense of the problem

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

i know, i know!! that was my first CEL earlier this year...then the FCV was sticking closed not allowing restart with warm engine! now EGR DTC. oh well, i'm a dieselgeek and proud of it guess it's the price to pay

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Jetta TDI '01
Liberty CRD '06
Kubota B2910 '00

How long did it take to remove and replace the EGR? How much crude was on the valve? Is the CEL off now?

second question first...not much crud in the valve body lightly powdered and easily cleaned. considering the MAP and FCV (previously cleaned) were crudded-up!! i was expecting more in the EGR. as for the task itself; it took a total in man-hours of approx 8hrs. i took my time over a two day period. i could probably do one now start to finish within 6hrs. I HIGHLY recommend disconnecting the battery since you will need to get access to the intake elbow bolts through the driver side engine compartment from below, working in very close proximity to the starter terminals. can we say ARC WELDING! i've done it once unintentionally! Some may say you could remove the EGR assy without removing what i did, but i chose the path of least resistance. Also I HIGHLY recommend new elbow to intake manifold gasket (impregnated cloth/rubber) and EGR gasket (metal). and lastly worm gear style hose clamps (3/8" dia) 2 ea. to replace the spring style type on the valve body. (my hoses would not keep with the OEM style clamps)

i seperated the solenoid from the valve so i could soak the valve. The solenoid pintel looked and felt fine under pressure. so did the valve action. so i don't really know if the valve was goofed or not. but the CEL is now extinquished, so i call it good.

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Jetta TDI '01
Liberty CRD '06
Kubota B2910 '00

I know dragging this back up is like beating a dead horse. But has anyone tried to clean the EGR with out removing it? The check engine light came on and the wife took it by a autozone and they gave her 2 codes. Low boost pressure and egr falure. I bought a cheezy code reader from harbor frieght. That wouldn't scan! I removed the pressure sensor from the intke and cleaned the soot off with carb cleaner. I moved the fuel filter out of the way and removed the 2 exaust gas pipes on the egr. I laid a rag over the starter and shot alot of carb cleaner into the egr. Alot of carbon and soot ran out the bottom port. I'll pick up a better code reader so i can clear the codes.It just cleared 49K yesterday and i'm the seconed onwer. So the dealer won't tell me what work has been done. I've read some posts about longer warranties for diesels and emmissions parts. Is there any chance i could get the dealer to repair it under warranty? Being the second owner the dealer/crysler seem to give the cold shoulder pretty quickly.

Low MAP (Boost) seems more like the FCV is not responsive, restricting intake air flow - have a look at that - one suggested test method is to open the hood, have someone kill the engine while you listen for a buzz or whir from that area as the ECM repositions the valve

'Course, the very first troubleshooting check is the air filter

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I just finished two days of cleaning out the Intake piping and egr valve and piping. The bolt holding the egr exhaust minfold to egr valve crossover tube had me cursing the engineer who designed this installation. The egr valve tubes and the egr valve was not that bad. The mixing manifold that bolts to the intake manifold was the problem. The inlet for the egr gases had a crusty buildup about a 1/4" thick. If was fouling the venturi effect needed for the charged air from the turbo to push the egr gases into the intake. Which I believe caused my low EGR flow code. I cleaned everything with Brake Cleaner after disassembling everything. I reused all the old clamps and gaskets. No problem there. The CAC to engine hose was in great shape even with 60,000 miles on this thing. I cleaned the intake mainfold with a shop vac using an oil fired boiler vac hose and tube brushes. I have a vac hose that is 1/4" flexible hose with brushes attached to it like a pipe cleaner. Did the Clean out dry. No solvents used in the intake. No compressed air, just a good strong vacume. Did not want anything to foul the valves or valve seats. After putting everything back together I cleared the codes and drove it for about two hours. Ran it like a rented ford. I am not an ORM fan. But I will look into getting the Oil vapor from the CCV out of the intake stream. Once this oil hits the heated egr stream it burns and coates the mixing manifold and starts sooting everything up. I didn't take pictures but if you pull the mixing manifold off and look inside where the egr gases come in, you with see what I believe is the problem. The bolts holding the mixing manifold inplace are 6 mm with an 8 mm hex head. Be careful not to over torque them. I had a problem with the dealer stripping a couple out at 16,000 miles when they replaced the EGR valve. When I went to reinstall these bolts I found that the dealer didn't fix it right. I had to tap it out and install a heli coil. "I hate flatrate dealer work". Well good luck, and don't trust the dealers!!!!

Howdy GoodCRD

Welcome to LOST and great 1st post.

The fix on the CAC oil is either the Provent or the EHM.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=22703

The EGR is semi controled with the ORM - although the SEGR is better long term
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=22631

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=23033

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

I won't disconnect the EGR or use The SEGR. I don't see this being a real problem. But I am thinking about installing a small quart sized tank like the set up used on some old 6V92 detriots I used to work on. I'm thinking about running a tube from the CCV straight down to a small quart sized tank with spun steel inside it. Then run a smaller diameter tube back up to the intake side of the turbo. This should trap the excess oil and I should be able to drain it with every oil change. Or I will look into changing over to a Racor Crankcase Ventilation Filter System using a CCV4500 rated at 10 CFM with a 1/4" oil to crankcase return. This should work much better and still keep me emissions compliant. On the Racor system the filter is easly replace able and has a filter replacement indicator.

Well, I did this little process today on the wife's '05. EGR valve #4 now, and it's at 57K miles.

Pretty much followed the instructions - but I found that it is NOT necessary to remove the CAC hose, FCV, FCV to manifold "snorkel", and the metal tube from the EGR cooler to the FCV. I got as far as removal of the CAC hose and EGR tube to the FCV and found that I had plenty of access to the EGR valve with just the fuel filter and filter mounting bracket out of the way. I'm not sure the battery tray even needs to be removed - just pull the battery.

It's still a bit of a PITA to get back there to the EGR, but it's really not a bad job.

Only tip I have is to clamp off the coolant lines to the EGR *BEFORE* removing them from the valve. I pulled the top line and had coolant squirting out of it as well as the EGR valve as it was being fed from the still-connected lower coolant line. I made a bit of a mess on the floor and had to keep my finger in the dike while my ever-patient wife ran and got a small pair of vise-grips to clamp off the lower line.

So, we should be good for another 20k miles (that's how long valve #3 lasted.....)

Chris

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'02 Jetta TDI Wagon 5 spd (mine)
'10 Outback (her's)
'05 CRD Sport (hangar queen)