Poll: full length rack worth roof nutsert install?

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 3:42 am

Just wanted to see what people's comfort level would be installing nutserts into their roof.

DryBones · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 9:20 am

but I would drill holes in the column around the windshield to put a true safari rack up there!

Drassis · **Joined:** Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:31 pm **Posts:** 182

Boiler wrote:

Just wanted to see what people's comfort level would be installing nutserts into their roof.

The only reason I have not bought a rack was cause their so short. I would love a rack that extended over the drivers seat.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 10:14 am

I'd do it. Only rack I would consider now is one of your Aluminum models anyway. Only need it for the extra space on road, wouldn't wheel w/ anything up there for sure and certainly don't want the extra weight of a steel rack up there.

MOF, only want a full length flat rack and would love a version that has some sort of quick release to it for removal.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 11:01 am

only problem with a full length rack is the fact that due to the curvature of the roof it will
1.) either have to be 6 inches off the roof at the front and rear, making it look pretty stupid
or
2.) it will be curved a lot which then will make it hard to haul plywood/lumber /ladders, anything long up there

Thats why the racks that you can get now are the length they are

I have no problems drilling holes anywhere at all, :wink:

but a full length on a KJ will not look like it's part of the KJ in my opinion

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 8:27 pm

Oh ye of little faith. Don't make me waste my summer just to prove you wrong. :twisted:

I'd pay good $ for a 3D model of the KJ & KK exteriors. Would be so nice to see designs on the Jeep before I make them. So much easier (and free) to mock things up on the computer (and change) instead of metal. So far the best I've found is a skin that I can see in my modeler, but I can't attach anything to it or export it to autocad even.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 8:36 pm

Just a thought.................

You need to be very careful on where you put the nutzert's to keep the structural integrity of the roof.

Just a thought is all.

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 9:08 pm

I would think the front of the little channel they are in now would be good. I haven't dug behind it or drilled it to see how thick it is yet. All just concept atm. Basically above the A pillar.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 10:36 pm

Maybe these will be of some help?
(photo credit: sir sam)

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 10:36 pm

Boiler wrote:

I would think the front of the little channel they are in now would be good. I haven't dug behind it or drilled it to see how thick it is yet. All just concept atm. Basically above the A pillar.

I sent you a pm, but if you are thinking what Im thinking, keep the original lenth , just add the extra tubing on it. I didnt think about what TJKJ wrote, it may disturb the integrety of the body line.

XC204 · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 8:56 am

First I have to say your rack and the wiring are both the best! you got the proto out and for sale in record time for anything on this site some think years are needed. Any way a full length rack looks great on the KJ see this post.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=11572

Also he didn't attach at the front just looks like it is. You could do a main hoop with the legs down to the roof or do your nitemare rack with the front hoop extended would look sharp.

Boiler · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 11:07 am

I got out looking at my KJ today...the front really doesn't need an attachement point, you guys are right. It's really not so far that you couldn't cantilever that hole front portion. Be a lot easier to install without doing all that extra mounting too.

Boiler · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 11:10 am

I liked kjhawaii's rack too. One advantage over a full bottomed rack he has is that the crown in the center of the roof doesn't make his sit as high as others. This allows a full length rack to not look so crazy at the ends, because it only sits a few inches off the roof.

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 11:21 am

Perhaps someday After you make a full length I will sell the one I'm getting from you now and buy a new full length.

bugnout · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 11:37 am

I'd definitely be interested in a full length rack.

Not sure you have to keep the side rails straight. If I had the facilities, I'd roll and curve the side rails to match the contours of the roof. But I'd make sure that the cross bars create a flat and level surface. Most everything I carry will fit between the rails.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 11:52 am

Excuse me for being stupid but what good is a rack with no cross bars? Just so it can sit lower? For what? I use mine all the time to haul stuff so need a "floor" I guess if you only want one for looks or mounting lights then I guess thats OK but for hauling??

XC204 · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 12:21 pm

Alot of people do not have means to carry long stuff like 2x4's etc. Not to many PU racks that have cross bars all the way
down the full length Tommy. Oh and if you bend the cross bars down at the ends you can clerance for the roof and keep a low profile on the main hoop.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 12:28 pm

who the he** is Tommy???????
trying to be cute or what

IT's not working :lol:

so here we go with you again :roll:

everytime

Boiler · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 12:31 pm

tommudd wrote:

Excuse me for being stupid but what good is a rack with no cross bars? Just so it can sit lower? For what? I use mine all the time to haul stuff so need a "floor" I guess if you only want one for looks or mounting lights then I guess thats OK but for hauling??

It is good for hauling 2x4's and maybe plywood. I think that's what he built his for. I wouldn't build one without a bottom though. I was just stating that's how he got such a low profile, and why his looks so good. One that had a full bottom would sit much higher at the front and rear, and like you said, might look a little funky.

I figured if I did full length, I'd curve the sides and:

1) have a curved bottom

2) have a flat bottom, but only in the rear. Crossbars could be moved all the way forward though, allowing you a long, 2-point rest for 2x4's or canoes, etc.

Just a note here guys, I won't be doing a long rack for the KJ for a long time. I was actually thinking about what I was going to make for the KK. I may still be doing one custom though.

DryBones · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 6:34 pm

you could throw a canoe up there with out cross bars throughout. it would ride quite nicely on the front and back crossbar.

Poll: full length rack worth roof nutsert install?

Who is online