Actual Lift Amount - Lets Compare Fender Heights

icarl · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2009 8:52 pm

03Cactus wrote:

The difference in tire size will move the center of the wheel closer to the bottom of the fender.

This would only be true if the force of gravity acting on the suspension changed with tire radius. Fortunately, it does not. The weight of the tires do not add to the weight of the vehicle acting on the springs since the tire is directly contacting the road. The road holds the weight of the tire. The springs only hold the weight of the rest of the vehicle. The tires hold the weight of the springs and the rest of the vehicle.

However, these measurements are not a perfect comparison since not every vehicle weighs exactly the same so not every force on the spring is the same.

jeepkj02 · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2009 8:57 pm

jsc7002 wrote:

jeepkj02 wrote:

OME Medium Duty Springs F&R (Approx. 9500 miles on Suspension)
Ranchos Shocks F&R
Rear: One extra Upper Iso Pad
No Gear
3.7L Gasser
Stock Front & Rear Bumper
235/70R16 Firestone ATs and 16x7 Cragars

From Center hub to Bottom of Flare

Rear: 22.5"
Front: 21.5"

Once I add my ARB this coming week I'm sure the front end will drop even more. Going to need to add a clevis lift and maybe a 1/4" spacer. Will edit later...

if I were you Id look inot getting HD coils or adding one of these:
http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-JBA_Spring_Ring-589.aspx

They're sitting in my garage now! They are the 1/4" spacer I were referring to.

But I'm still going back and forth between replacing the coils or adding a spacer.

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2009 9:16 pm

Speaking on an 02 model , if you have the FSM take a look at page 2-4, lower left of the page.. That all

icarl · **Posted:** Mon May 25, 2009 10:08 pm

LIV42DY wrote:

Speaking on an 02 model , if you have the FSM take a look at page 2-4, lower left of the page.. That all

Yes, even Jeep agrees. The only thing i do not like about Jeep's measurement is when you think about it how are you going to actually measure the height distance from the center hub to the rear pivot point? It's much easier to measure from the center hub to the flare.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 1:31 pm

alright, no laughing...

ok, plenty of laughing..!

mine is 18 inches give or take an 1/8th all the way around

:lol:

99910 miles on stock suspension, only thing thats been replaced was UCA's

saggin like some elderly breastases!

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 1:59 pm

JeepBumm68 wrote:

ya ya tommudd. I know it is not netting any higher. But hopefully, the girl measured everything right also. Any ways this does prove that the stock suspension is sagging pretty bad. gives me proof now, and hopefully the girl well listen to my lift idea.

Sorry sort of using you to show that although the lift you have should net you 3.5 inches in reality you're not getting that much due to sagging springs. We get so many comments well I have a 03 with 90,000 miles and want to lift it which is best....duh springs. Yours shows that although you did the lift the springs are not giving the true height advertised which I think those companies should tell customers up front.

So again sorry for using you to prove a point :oops:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 2:36 pm

icarl wrote:

LIV42DY wrote:

Speaking on an 02 model , if you have the FSM take a look at page 2-4, lower left of the page.. That all

Yes, even Jeep agrees. The only thing i do not like about Jeep's measurement is when you think about it how are you going to actually measure the height distance from the center hub to the rear pivot point? It's much easier to measure from the center hub to the flare.

Easier,yes.................

Accurate,no since flares can be moved very easily.There are holes in the bottom of the unibody "frame rail" that served as assembly mounting points and are within 10mm +/- of each other on all KJ's and that is where actual measurements should be taken for ride height just like they do on a frame rack to determine how bad a unibody or frame is bent/twisted.Oh and yes 10mm +/- is the industry standard,3mm-5mm for panel gaps.

JeepBumm68 · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 2:49 pm

Hey it is al good Tom. no worries man, trust me this made me open my eyes on the lift as well. it it had new CRD springs i beat it would net 3.5''. But with sagging stock springs it is only netting like you said about 2'' over stock. With this i have talked the girl into getting the CRD OME HD's Front and Rear. with rancho struts and shocks. Depending on how much lift it gives us, i well cut the struts from RK and put them on their to aid in the lift, but not gain any more.

Hood297 · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 10:15 pm

Im at 23" in the front and 23 1/2 in the rear with my Hood's Old Rusty Emu lift kit!

:lol:

sidewayskj · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 11:48 pm

running bds lift not clevis or iso and sitting at 20 and a quarter inch all 4 wheels all is well and rides nice.

vjwag · **Posted:** Wed May 27, 2009 1:09 am

ok, CRD 06, replaced the front coils with OME 790s, no clevis.
rear is set of Rusty's coils with 3 isolators.

500 miles on the lift, 56k on the KJ.

FL 21 3/4
FR 21 1/2
RL 21 1/2
RR 21 1/4

Note to all, put in all 3 isolators in the rear.

JeepinMaxx · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 7:54 pm

02 KJ with Rusty's 2.5" spring lift and a winch. Around 3 years on this lift

20 3/4" front and 21 1/2" rear.

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 10:48 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

icarl wrote:

LIV42DY wrote:

Speaking on an 02 model , if you have the FSM take a look at page 2-4, lower left of the page.. That all

Yes, even Jeep agrees. The only thing i do not like about Jeep's measurement is when you think about it how are you going to actually measure the height distance from the center hub to the rear pivot point? It's much easier to measure from the center hub to the flare.

Easier,yes.................

Accurate,no since flares can be moved very easily.There are holes in the bottom of the unibody "frame rail" that served as assembly mounting points and are within 10mm +/- of each other on all KJ's and that is where actual measurements should be taken for ride height just like they do on a frame rack to determine how bad a unibody or frame is bent/twisted.Oh and yes 10mm +/- is the industry standard,3mm-5mm for panel gaps.

Amen

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 11:40 pm

Alright,

2006 Stock KJ + approx 100-125lbs trail gear located on floor of rear seat.
3.7l V6
A little under 70k miles
Front: a hair under 18 1/2" both sides

Rear: 19" on the nose.

I want to know why my measurements seem so high, but I look so low

I can't wait till I have skids/hooks so I can save up for my Frankie/arms/tires

KJ 119 · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 11:52 pm

I'm about 2000 miles on a Frankin-OME with Al's arm setup and am 20 all around.

hardhittinz · **Joined:** Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:44 pm **Posts:** 195

07 stock setup front 18 1/2 rear 19 1/4

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 8:19 pm

LIV42DY wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

icarl wrote:

LIV42DY wrote:

Speaking on an 02 model , if you have the FSM take a look at page 2-4, lower left of the page.. That all

Yes, even Jeep agrees. The only thing i do not like about Jeep's measurement is when you think about it how are you going to actually measure the height distance from the center hub to the rear pivot point? It's much easier to measure from the center hub to the flare.

Easier,yes.................

Accurate,no since flares can be moved very easily.There are holes in the bottom of the unibody "frame rail" that served as assembly mounting points and are within 10mm +/- of each other on all KJ's and that is where actual measurements should be taken for ride height just like they do on a frame rack to determine how bad a unibody or frame is bent/twisted.Oh and yes 10mm +/- is the industry standard,3mm-5mm for panel gaps.

Amen

But this works and everyone almost understands it, :shock:

so whats the big deal in a few micro centemeters, this is just for an average, not an exact never to be questioned fiqure :wink:

2006 KJ · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 8:42 pm

tommudd wrote:

LIV42DY wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

icarl wrote:

LIV42DY wrote:

Speaking on an 02 model , if you have the FSM take a look at page 2-4, lower left of the page.. That all

Yes, even Jeep agrees. The only thing i do not like about Jeep's measurement is when you think about it how are you going to actually measure the height distance from the center hub to the rear pivot point? It's much easier to measure from the center hub to the flare.

Easier,yes.................

Accurate,no since flares can be moved very easily.There are holes in the bottom of the unibody "frame rail" that served as assembly mounting points and are within 10mm +/- of each other on all KJ's and that is where actual measurements should be taken for ride height just like they do on a frame rack to determine how bad a unibody or frame is bent/twisted.Oh and yes 10mm +/- is the industry standard,3mm-5mm for panel gaps.

Amen

But this works and everyone almost understands it, :shock:

so whats the big deal in a few micro centemeters, this is just for an average, not an exact never to be questioned fiqure :wink:

you mean you dont have a spare lazar guided tram gauge laying around the garage?

Guest · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 10:22 pm

2006 KJ wrote:

you mean you dont have a spare lazar guided tram gauge laying around the garage?

No, but ThunderbirdJunkie has a spare copy of Tron on Beta Max

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun May 31, 2009 10:51 pm

I do but its only used for special projects down in the basement of the garage :wink:

Actual Lift Amount - Lets Compare Fender Heights

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