Some questions for my new CRD (Boost Gauge, brush guard, etc

Konk · **Posted:** Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:37 pm

Got the Jeep a few months ago. Had a few questions about stuff that I want to do it, was hoping to get some good advice opinions.

Got the Jeep because I need something practical, that got decent mileage, didn't strain itself trying to accelerate, and a big plus was also able to pull my 16ft travel trailer.

First I installed a Magnaflow muffler. Recently installed a rear hitch and added a back "work light". Going to be installing the 7-pin connector and brake controller whenever it either stops raining/being way too cold or my bay at work is empty.

Next think I want to get is some kind of brush guard. I do a lot of driving out in the country and don't want to see a deer taking my whole front end. I want something that looks clean, and "chrome" to match the rest of the trim on my Limited CRD. I plan on adding a set of 100w+ lights onto the front, but an drill or fabricate and weld on a bracket if I need to (would rather not though, but had to do it for the recent rear light I installed).

Next thing would be adding some fort of mild lift. Wasn't sue if spacers were the way to go or not thought. As stated, I plan to tow my travel trailer that weighs 3,300lbs. Later on I'll probably be trading it for something that pushes 4,500lbs, but right now I'm just keeping an eye on the used lot at work and waiting patiently for the right model and price to show up.

I don't plan on doing any serious off-roading; I have a 83 CJ-7 for that. Still working on it though (4.2 with 4.0head, Holley, header, 32X11.5 tires, etc.) Right now I drive my Liberty nearly daily, but when the CJ gets in a little better condition I plan to save the Liberty more for weekend out-of-town trips (which has always been nearly every weekend for me). So, I don't need the best off-road suspension upgrades, just something that would give me a little bit more height and still work for towing.

About the boost gauge. I snatched one up before I realized a vacuum line ran to the Turbo (or so, that's what I've read)? Any ways, From what I've read I have to drill and tap into my intake manifold, and while I could do that, I just don't want too. I know there is a vacuum solenoid over by the air box, but I haven't acquired any diagrams yet and have not really looked hard into it. Can one of these lines not be T'd into; it's just hard for me to believe that there isn't a single line under there somewhere I could take a boost reading off of........

Some pictures of the new Liberty, and some of my CJ since this is a Jeep forum :wink:

Not a Diesel, but has just as much torque as one....

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am

Congrats on the new Jeep. It looks exactly like my own little brown turd, but mine is a sport model (has the chrome for some reason though). The intake tract is the only place to tap boost from. The vacuum line which goes to the turbo charger is what is used to control boost level. We have a variable geometry turbo which uses a vacuum actuator to move the vanes. Tapping into it won't really give any useful info other than that it is working. Have another person rev the engine just a little bit while you drill into the manifold so that the aluminum bits are blown back out through the hole and not ingested by the engine.

Personally I'd install a Pyrometer before I'd do a boost gauge, as it gives a reading which is impossible to tell from the seat of your pants, which can kind of give an indication of boost. But that is just me.

I am saving for a Frankenlift myself but you may be happy with a Daystar puck lift, however those who have them claim that they will make the ride stiffer (maybe not a bad thing).

I haven't yet found any brush guards which will stand up to deer impact at highway speed.

Your little brown turd will pull a 4500# trailer just fine.

Loose the Crapyear tires

danoid · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:21 pm

IMO the only think that can take out a deer and not suffer probably says Oshkosh on the front.

If you're towing a trailer I think you'll need the following:

New tires - at least load range D.

Trailer sway control - I have the Hensley Arrow. That's horribly expensive (but mine's finally paid off) but there are others.

Depending on hitch weight you'll want to look into installing helper springs. I put in AirLift 1000 bags for the rear and it helped a lot. The rear suspension doesn't handle the high weight / high torque combination well.

Do you need a lift kit? I've tugged a 27' / 5600# travel trailer for four years without one. Not sure what it would do to the towing / handling.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:40 pm

First thoughts beyond welcoming you to the forum....

Where in 'Central Va' are you? I'm in 'Central Va' too, in Lynchburg. Can't get much more central than the geographic center! :lol:

I've got to echo the question: Why a lift for towing?

I've pulled 7000 lbs with this tractor without any kind of lift kit, although I WILL say that I wish I had airbags for the one time that I had 1200 lbs of tongue weight. Yes, I know exactly, I measured it. The front wheels were not off the ground, and it handled just fine... But I wouldn't suggest that for anyone else, and I'm not doing that again. For your trailer, I don't think you need anything really... Other than dumping those tires and getting some Load Range D or E shoes, and a decent brake controller. 19mpg pulling isn't unusual for these tractors, they love to haul stuff.

If you aren't far from the Lynchburg area, we should grab lunch and compare notes. I'm sure I have a few toys that you will want to consider, and I'm interested in a 'Bambi thumper' front end widget too, if you have some fabrication skills. I'd be happy to do some of the design work for a collaborative project.

--Jim

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 4:18 pm

Pack the drill flutes with grease and go easy, grease will keep the chips from falling into the manifolds. To save having to tap into the intake I just drilled through an unused mounting bolt hole, and used a banjo fitting and banjo bolt.

For my EGT probe, I drilled and tapped into an exhaust runner so I did not have to pull the turbo. Remember to pack the drill flutes and tap flutes with grease to catch the chips and take it easy. I don't like exhaust blowing into my face.

Trans temp gauge is another good option. Here is the probe on my PML pan.

With the Extra Deep PML pan the warmist my trans oil has ever gotten was 180f and that was when I was stuck in a crawl and stop traffic jam in 95f+ weather. I have never gone over 140f when towing a trailer. Only draw back of the PML Extra Deep Pan is that in sub zero weather it will take up to five miles of driving on the tollway to get my torque converter locked in fifth.
X2 on the sway control, I got mine from Harbor Freight for $16 on sale and it works fine, there are better ones out there, but not for that price.

Konk · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:40 pm

Didn't mean to say that the lift would be for towing. Sorry if that came out wrong. What I meant to say was that I would like a lift that would also work well with towing, meaning, something that wouldn't make the rear sag too much.

I just want the lift because I think the Liberty sits too low. I do plan on doing some off-roading with it, nothing big. Maybe drive on the beach some, around the families property in the mountains, etc.

As far as the tires go, they're brand new and came with the vehicle. I'd like to get a set of BFG AT's when these wear out, which well be awhile, but no rush.

Thanks for the pictures of the mounting places. It's just everything I've learned, drilling into a intake manifold that's bolted onto an engine just screams "bad idea" to me. Although, the existing mounting hole looks pretty "clean". I knew out Turbo's were Variable geometry and how they worked, but I had figured there had to be some sort of "signal" line to something I could tap into, either running off of the manifold, turbo, or somewhere in between. It would still be nice to see some sort of diagrams.

jinstall · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:55 pm

Just an FYI, if you get the Samco Sport hoses you can get a tap from Samco Sport for a boost gauge in the hose.

danoid · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:50 pm

I don't know if a lift kit is bad for towing or not. I'm just nervous about messing with a rig that works fine now. I keep working on the wife for a Frankenlift and all new bushings. My front end creaks horribly now that it's cold again.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:08 pm

I think an ARB would handle a whitetail - at least ones around here
I wouldn't want to take on a Mule Deer though - he'd go through the windshield.

I suspect the lift won't affect the towing - but bigger tires - will definitely cause problems
(you might be able to go up to 254/75/16's - and regear to 4:10's that could balance out -
and 245/75/16's will get you through a fair number of trails)

Danoid - front creaks tend to be the sway bar - needs lube - best answer was to drill bushings for zirk fitting and use a si based grease.
pix went away
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=12494&highlight=grease+sway+bar+bushings

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:18 pm

If you're worried about tire size but want something a LITTLE bigger than stock, try 245/70 R16. It might not look quite as good as the /75s, but the diameter is a little larger than stock but not to the point of needing to change your gearing, and the extra tread width is nice offroad. Also, rubbing is a non-issue. I personally think it would still look good with a CRD OME lift (which I think is slightly lower than the gasser version).

Dan

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:31 pm

I have 245-70/16 tires. they look great on mine. I am not lifted.

Nice Jeep too man.

jinstall · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:23 pm

I too am in the 245/70/16 club and highly recommend it. No lift.

Hoosierdaddy · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:33 pm

IMHO a lift kit can be a disadvantage for towing, When you elevate the hitch height above the axle centerline you increase it's ability to "wag the dog" because it has more "leverage" against the C/G. A drop hitch ball insert would probably allow a modest lift kit to perform safely. Air springs or helper springs can help level the rig but does nothing to remedy a "light" front axle load. I have air-bags on my Chevy K2500 and have found that if I inflate them too much it handles worse while towing heavy. I am not an engineer but have A LOT of experience pulling all types of trailers. While it is possible to pull a trailer safely with the Liberty (as evidenced by others experience on this list) I would offer that your set-up needs to be right especially on a relatively light short wheel-base vehicle which tends to be less forgiving during emergency maneuvers.
danoid mentioned the Hensley Arrow,, I have no experience with it but it sure looks like a good idea. A weight equalizing hitch would be helpful if you tow heavy.
Mikey, I like your mud flaps ...Where did you get them?
Dean

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Wed Dec 09, 2009 2:02 am

Hoosierdaddy wrote:

a relatively light short wheel-base vehicle

4700lbs is light? My Lightning weighed 4700lbs...

Hoosierdaddy · **Posted:** Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:25 am

RT, You are making my point!
Konk is considering pulling a 4500# travel trailer which is very near the maximum rating for the Liberty (5000# trailer/500#tongue weight) and for the Lightning as well (5000#trailer/500#tongue weight according to Ford Lightning.com statistics). Having enough power/torque to get it rolling is one thing....keeping it stable especially with a travel trailer which is affected by the wind is another.
Others have mention higher load rating tires. I agree completely. A rear tire blowing while towing could get very interesting!

Konk · **Posted:** Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:02 pm

Up to 4,500lb, although, for the time being, the Travel Trailer I have weighs around 3,300lbs. Which, it might never leave storage.

I'm an RV tech, I don't do much hitch work myself (I'm do more electrical and other stuff) but trust me, I'll have all of the right equipment and have it set up correctly. Personally, I like the Blue Ox setups the best and well probably be using one of those. I've seen a few Hensley's come through the shop, but they're rare. I was more or less worried about a new suspension lift being a bit too soft and messing up the load ratings.

As far as tire size goes, I want something a bit more wider for sand. I'd get out on the beach in the CJ, air the tires down to 30psi, and run it up and down the shore in 2WD with no problem at all. I'm almost worried to take the Liberty out there, as I've seen many stock modern SUV's get stuck. Any experience with driving these things on the beach?

If I walk outside and it looks like I'll need 4WD to get to work, I'll most likely jump in the CJ. On the other hand, my CJ can't tow my camper down to the Outer Banks....

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:32 am

Another thing to try when towing is to put it in 4X4 Full time mode (green light on dash).
Mine seems to just handle much better when towing when in the full time mode.

danoid · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:53 pm

Turbo Tim wrote:

Another thing to try when towing is to put it in 4X4 Full time mode (green light on dash).
Mine seems to just handle much better when towing when in the full time mode.

EEK! Mine vibrates the whole truck. I only tow in 2WD.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2009 5:38 pm

Hoosierdaddy wrote:

RT, You are making my point!
Konk is considering pulling a 4500# travel trailer which is very near the maximum rating for the Liberty (5000# trailer/500#tongue weight) and for the Lightning as well (5000#trailer/500#tongue weight according to Ford Lightning.com statistics). Having enough power/torque to get it rolling is one thing....keeping it stable especially with a travel trailer which is affected by the wind is another.
Others have mention higher load rating tires. I agree completely. A rear tire blowing while towing could get very interesting!

I pull ~4500lbs regularly when I tow my SVO (~3050 for the car + ~1500lb trailer) and don't have any issues. The only time I've had issues is when I had the car to far back and not enough weight on the tongue. I wouldn't recommend towing that without electric brakes.

Some will also point out that in Europe its rated to tow something like 7000lbs. I've never looked into it, because, well I don't live in Europe.

BTW, where are you in the Fort? I'm originally from there.

danoid wrote:

Turbo Tim wrote:

Another thing to try when towing is to put it in 4X4 Full time mode (green light on dash).
Mine seems to just handle much better when towing when in the full time mode.

EEK! Mine vibrates the whole truck. I only tow in 2WD.

I've only towed in 2wd as well. Never tried 4wd...never had the need to.

Hoosierdaddy · **Posted:** Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:00 am

Yeah years ago I ended up loading a Pontiac TransAm on my trailer backwards (transmission broke while parked nose-first into my garage). I couldn't get over 30mph w/o the tail waggin the dog!
RT I live 20 miles north of the Fort on Hwy 33.

My web-site:

www.kimmellhouseinn.com

Some questions for my new CRD (Boost Gauge, brush guard, etc

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