Keith (GDE) doesn't miss much on here, which is an awesome thing for a vendor to be that involved in any forum.
Ditto what LW said, you should be great with just disconnecting the electrical plugs on the injectors and giving it a go. The injectors won't do squat unless the computer tells them to.
With the timing belt being solid, I'm cautiously optimistic about the engine internals. Unless it somehow managed to inhale a goose, there shouldn't be anything mucking up the mechanicals inside your cylinders at this point. This whole idea of making a racket while cranking with just AIR in the lines is a new one on me... Never heard anything like that before. But I guess it's possible considering Racer had it happen. I would have (in his case) blamed it on maybe methanol in the bad biodiesel detonating, which would cause all manner of mayhem in a compression chamber.
Racer makes a good point tho: Even with the heater unplugged, you still have the factory fuel-suck system. In the insane heat of the last few weeks, vapor lock is a VERY real problem.
!!!! Sonofabitch!!!!! OK, I literally JUST NOW made the connection! You HAVE had a vapor lock incident! I completely forgot about what I am about to tell you - Two years ago, I was in Savannah for the summer. It was insanely hot that day, and I had been driving around for work. I did not have the external lift pump (at the tank) installed at that time. I get to one place, and just as I'm pulling into the parking lot, I lose almost all power. The engine starts knocking LOUD, but still running. I shut it down after parking (didn't have time right then) and went to work. On the way out, it started fine, but started knocking again badly within 15 seconds or so, and died on me in the exit of the parking lot. Would not restart.
A coworker who was leaving stopped to help me and told me about vapor lock in the lines - Not just a diesel thing, but an engines-don't-like-heat-either thing. I bled the system and it started for me after about 30-45 seconds of cranking (in 5-second runs) and did the same white smoke thing.
So... Try the unplugging the injector test, since it is fast. If all is quiet and smooth... Then you have a fuel issue.
To fix that and at least get the engine running and clear the lines, you will want to play "doctor" with your engine: Make an IV bottle. Get a 5 gallon jug of fresh diesel, and a long clear hose. Connect the hose onto the line from the filter that runs direct to the engine. IIRC, it is the fender-facing side. Try to set the hose up into the jug of diesel as close as possible. If you REALLY want to fix this quick, get a "Mr Gasket" type pump from the parts store (It will be about $40) and use the battery 12v supply to run the pump. Choose a pump that has less than 10psi of pressure, the diesel Mr Gasket works great, but any for a carb'd engine will too. The pressure will be listed on the package.
Let it pump the fuel into the CP3 pump for a few seconds, then give it a try. Once it idles normally with the clean fuel... Put it back to the stock fuel path... But install that pump on the outlet line from the tank, right AT the tank. This will prevent ANY air from forming in the fuel line, as the system will now be a positive-delivery design rather than a suction design. There is a wire already routed under the rear driver-side seat to power a pump, someone else hopefully has the link to the walkthrough for that wiring. I did mine the hard way - Ran the wire up to the engine bay fuse box and right under the relay.
Keep us posted... I'm going to go pass out now.
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2011 Ford F-150 XLT 4X4
Seems petty now.
something else to try.