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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 3:53 pm 
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AZScout wrote:
Can someone post a .pdf of the instructions? Mine didn't come with any and I'm itchin to get it on. The reason I ask is that the adapter does not screw into the f108n easily and I don't want to force it. Seems odd that it wouldn't fit...
Put a couple of drops of oil on the male treads from the dipstick, lightly chuck the adapter in a vise or wrench and then screw them together, when doing it with your fingers it does seem like they don't fit but they do. No real instructions needed, I never used more then the 25 flb's of torque on the pair.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 4:03 pm 
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just lube the threads with some oil and it will go on, the first couple of turns are hard

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 4:08 pm 
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Cool. Thanks all!

Dave

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 4:09 pm 
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AZScout wrote:
Cool. Thanks all!

Dave
You owe each of us a dollar. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 4:22 pm 
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Yea, what he said :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:15 am 
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Well has everyone got their FUMOTO installed? I have several months before oil change time. Though I would have heard some fun stories about the change out by now. You know, oil drained into arm pitt or some such.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:38 pm 
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well I have to wait for mine to get shipped .. I think I have about 1k miles before next change .. cutting it close to the next trip I take ... I'm sure I will have some story about spilling oil on the driveway or something


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 11:22 am 
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Invest in a large diameter (2 foot or larger) drain pan before you attempt to pull the plug. Walmart has a big pan but a sealed top with a very small hole, I would saw a much larger hole in the top. Oil will come out like water, splashed so hard it spattered the underside of the Jeep. You will also get a rush when you unscrew the filter (this is the armpit shot). Next time I will puncture the bottom of the filter and let it drain first.

I like the Fomoto valve and want one (have used them on buses) but don't like the exposed drain location on this Jeep. I don't have the extra skid plates (and don't want them on my jeep in the road salt around Cleveland). Talking to a weld shop about building an open, removable guard (angle iron W/ curved pipe) to slip into the bolts for the motor skid plate and encircle the drain plug. I have a couple of month before my next oil change, hope to get it done this time.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 9:58 am 
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..........

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Last edited by longarm on Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 10:01 pm 
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"Invest in a large diameter (2 foot or larger) drain pan before you attempt to pull the plug. Walmart has a big pan but a sealed top with a very small hole, I would saw a much larger hole in the top. Oil will come out like water, splashed so hard it spattered the underside of the Jeep. You will also get a rush when you unscrew the filter (this is the armpit shot). Next time I will puncture the bottom of the filter and let it drain first."

Do listen to this, I can second it. I punctured the oil filter and drained it with no problem, but taking the oil plug out reaked havoc. The oil comes out like taking the lid off a gallon jug of milk and turning it upside down. I put plastic down just in case-- and I needed all of it and still got some on the garage floor :( . If I had known how fast that oil was coming out, I would have left the plug partially in to ubstruct and slow the flow. I then put the Fumoto in and hopefully none of those silly problems will exist on the next change.

I got the fumoto with with the nipple and it does not stick out past the skid row skid plate but is darn close. A hole is cut around it on the skid row plate, so the plate could not catch on it, but the fumoto could poke out if the plate had a alot of wieght on it and bowed in. I suppose that the next oil change I will trim the nozzle-- I will get rid of the lip on it, but will still leave most of the shaft. This way I can still put a tube on it with a pair of locking pliers to keep the tube from sliding off. Anyway, I finger tightened the fumoto and then gave it an additional quarter turn as someone suggested (No torque wrench, so I don't know how much ft pounds). No oil leaks so far. 6.4 quarts put it in the middle of the max and minimum on the dip stick.

As for the stock drain plug, wow was that thing tight. It was tight as a lug nut. It took awhile to break it, and all I can say is that I don't know why they call it a funny bone, because it was not funny. The 8mm hex drain plug is a little wierd too.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 10:22 pm 
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Don't cut the nipple, get a couple of nuts or some washers and put them between the skids and the mounts and that will lower the skid about 1/8 to 1/2 inch depending on how much is needed and keep the nipple intact. It is what I am going to do to mine.

All you have to do with the filter is loosen it a half turn or so and let it drain out into the pan then remove it after it finishes draining.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:33 am 
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oldnavy wrote:
Don't cut the nipple, get a couple of nuts or some washers and put them between the skids and the mounts and that will lower the skid about 1/8 to 1/2 inch depending on how much is needed and keep the nipple intact. It is what I am going to do to mine.

All you have to do with the filter is loosen it a half turn or so and let it drain out into the pan then remove it after it finishes draining.


The only problem with this is the KJ is "challenged" in the area of ground clearance to begin with. Most guys on this site are installing lift kits to get the KJ up to a "normal" height above the ground. It was only after I did a lift kit that my skid plates finally stopped banging and clanging off the ground every time I ventured off the pavement. Putting washers in to lower the skid plate is only going to counter-act everything we accomplished with the lift. It's going to reduce ground clearance and make the skids more susceptible to being bounced off of on/off road hazards. You'd be amazed at the difference every inch makes.

I say if you have the nipple on your Fumoto and you ever have your Jeep off paved roads....remove the nipple. If it was mine I would remove the nipple even if it was an on-road only Jeep. I can see a chunk of a tire from a semi wiping that nipple out on the Interstate right now... But that's just me.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 10:49 am 
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I think you are a little too worried about the nipple and dragging. From what I can see unless you are someone who goes into the desert or hill's just looking to see how bad a place you can get through then yes you probably would not want the nipple or to shim your skid plate 1/8 to 1/2 inch. But just to go into the woods on a hunting trip and not trying to go through every hole or climb over every large rock or boulder, or as my wife's soccer grandma sit up high ride that will never see anything worse then maybe (I say maybe) a tire tread from a semi, there is no real worry in my off and on roading experience. I mean I only ever got stuck in the woods once when in 1972 I drove my old '66 IH Scout into a creek bed at a really tough spot instead of crossing at a known good crossing spot just to show off. Like to never got out of that spot, and that is the type of driving where the nipple would might be in danger.

I never drove any of my vehicles into the woods, hills or desert looking for the worse trail possible just to say I got across except that one time. I know several here bought the Jeep with that in mind and in my opinion they bought the wrong Jeep, but that is just my opinion and we all know what opinions are like and everyone has one. :shock: If the Liberty is just a daily driver and maybe a vehicle to tow your pop up camper to the camp sight and you are not going rock climbing or trying to climb over fallen tree's then the nipple, and maybe a shim, is a none issue in my opion (remember opions and a$$holes, we all have them) and will never cause a problem. The FUMOTO with nipple spent many years hanging off the back end of the oil pan of the wife's 4L Jeep Cherokee that was driven quite a few times down back woods trails and many, many miles down the interstate and around town and 270,000 miles later it is still on the Jeep and no the jeep didn't have a engine skid plate, but for some reason came with a fuel tank skid plate.

Speaking of Jeeps and high mileage, I suspect by the end of the year the Cherokee will cross the 300,000 mile mark and will never had the head off and just recently had the pan dropped to replace leaking main bearing seal. The neighbor who now owns the car did the job in his drive way and told me he had never seen a oil pan that clean. He has been using the same Mobil 1 10w-30 oil since he bought it from us with 170,000 miles on it about 3 years ago. His son drove it back and forth to college 80 miles one way and now drives it to work daily and has told his dad he is not buying a new car till the Jeep dies. His dad tells me he thinks the kid will be in his 40's before the Jeep ever gives up the ghost. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 11:55 am 
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Ohhh boy, don't even get the people in here started again on how reliable the XJ is. I mentioned that once and got hammered. :mrgreen:

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Last edited by longarm on Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 12:00 pm 
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All I have heard so far is the valve with the nipple hangs below the opening of the Mopar skid. and the one without the nipple is right at the opening.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 2:36 pm 
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0311_DoC wrote:
All I have heard so far is the valve with the nipple hangs below the opening of the Mopar skid. and the one without the nipple is right at the opening.
It's the tube coming off the valve that extends below the skid plate. If already ordered and you are worried about it sticking below the skid plate you can saw it off real easy or you can shim the skid plate where it hangs a 1/2 inch lower. If you don't want to lower the ground clearance 1/2 inch just hacksaw the nipple off or order a valve without the nipple. The nipple is not really needed on the Liberty as it is high enough to slide a oil container under without using ramps.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:47 pm 
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Well just got back at noon yesterday from Hawaii. Covered up in work for for a few days now.

It really makes no difference to me but I think that guys are a little to up tight about the clearance. On the Ford and Dodge diesels the plug is on the bottom as well and I have sold hundreds of Fumotos to these guys and have never heard of one getting ripped off. You have to remember that their are other things its going to hit before it ever gets to the Fumoto.


Greg


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:29 am 
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Hawaii!! WOW!! That would be nice right now...it's 35 degrees here.

Well, I guess those guys with the Ford and Dodge trucks must not use their trucks on off-road trails much then. Because I drive light to moderate trails in my Jeep...nothing hardcore...and judging by the marks all over my skid plate I would say the Fumoto with the nipple would last all of about one week on here. So the one without the nipple worked out just perfect for me.

It's a brilliant product and I know I'm going to really enjoy it when it comes time to change the oil next. Thanks so much for working on this for us!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:42 pm 
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Just picking up my new '06 CRD today and have been reading through the great info on this forum. Wow! Looks like I might be to late to get in on the Fumoto valve purchase, but are there any left for us newbies?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:53 pm 
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Inet_CRD wrote:
Just picking up my new '06 CRD today and have been reading through the great info on this forum. Wow! Looks like I might be to late to get in on the Fumoto valve purchase, but are there any left for us newbies?


Sure would like to see some pics of your ride

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