My EHM fix was actually very easy to accomplish.
I needed a drill, a length of hose to go from the PCV vent (Positive crankcase ventilation) to the air box, a fitting to attach to (easily bought from a boat supply store or similar). You will also need a plasticy-cork from a wine bottle (yes, really).
I'd recommend you do this yourself, but try a dry-run before-hand to familiarize yourself with parts.
How to:
-Remove engine Oil cap, then the plastic engine cover.
-Use a flat-tip screwdriver to loosen the fittings on the hose attached to the PCV assembly.
-Once hose removed from PCV, gently pull hose and "plug" from the air intake to the turbo.
--Once removed, take your cork, preferably the mostly "plasticy" kind, and squeeze it into the now empty plug by the turbo inlet.
-Undo all attachments to the larger section of the airbox.
--The lid comes off the top, and several screws hold the base to the engine compartment -Locate the backside of the airbox, and MARK ONLY the position to drill your 1" hole for your hose fitting.
-Place (not screw in, just physically place) airbox bottom back in engine compartment. Ensure the wheel-well behind the airbox does not block your intended position.
--After ensuring you have placed your mark in a "good" spot, recheck everything. Use the "Measure twice, cut once" methodology.
---I did not do that, and had to plug a hole in my airbox. This is why I'm stressing this part
-Drill hole for fitting. This is the fitting you will likely want to use. I used a straight version. Either works.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=10638--Place your hose fitting into hole, Tighten into place. If the fins on the side are preventing a flat seal, they twist out in small pieces with a pair of pliers. The adapter for the hose should be on the OUTSIDE of the airbox with the threads on the inside of the airbox - this is important.
-Reinstall and reassemble airbox. Leave the lid off.
-Attach your hose to the PCV fitting on engine top. Zip-tie tightly into place.
--Route to the airbox hose. DO NOT CUT hose yet!!!!!!!!!!!!
-It is important that you are able to make the connection to the airbox with no kinks in the hose. If you have kinks, it will not work correctly.
--Trim hose in small increments to get to non-kink length. Too long, and you will kink. Too short, and you won't be able to make the connection.
--When you have the correct length and hose fitted on the fitting nipple, firmly zip-tie into place.
-Use oil-absorbent material from a marine store like this:
(
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=10441)
--Cut a small square out.
--Go to your hose fitting inside the airbox and wrap square of material around threads.
--Double zip-tie into place (two separate zip-ties)
-Lastly, Test run engine (Put oil cap back on engine BEFORE STARTING, or you will take a bath in oil mist). If successful, reassemble all parts. If you follow these directions, you will be successful.
The oil absorbent material on the inside of the airbox is critical. It knocks the oil out of suspension in the air coming from the PCV. Yes, you may have oil dripping from your airbox in time, but it is of little concern.
You have just rerouted your PCV fumes to still be burned (mostly) in the engine, while preventing oil-saturation in your air filter and in the intake side of the engine. Your total cost should be about $20-$30 USD. It still burns the "nasties" without oiling up everything.
After over 9,000 miles, I am still on the same air filter, and it is still looking pretty good.
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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)
If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16