100k service - did I miss anything?

rob40wilson03 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:43 pm **Posts:** 51

Hey guys,

I just hit 90,000 on my 2006 and decided to start to put together my service list before the big 100. I would love some opinions on my choices such as things that maybe I don't need on there, or things I should add. Here's what I've got:

Timing belt & idler pulleys
Replace boost pressure solenoid (?)
Timing belt tensioner (?)
Check transmission fluid
Trans sump filter and cooler return filter (?)
Fuel filter / water separator - (This is easy enough to do myself, right??)
Water pump

Also, I need to find a place in or around Charlotte, NC to do this stuff. I called one of the dealers and he looked up the price for ONLY the timing belt and water pump.... $1800. This seems totally ridiculous to me.

Thanks!!

woodtick · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 6:03 pm

Sourcing my own parts (kit from ID), plus labor around $1200. Shop around local diesel shops. Most of the dealers suck canal water.

The dealer close to,me quoted $2100. :shock:

I found someone far better. You should too.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:35 am

For the TB job you need the TB itself at minimum. There is some discussion but once you are in that far at ca. 100K miles add the 2 idler pulleys, and the tensioner. Water pump is kind of your call. It's not terribly prone to faillure but it is hard to get too from scratch as you have to repeat all the TB work + some to change out the front 1/2, all that needs doing, of the WP. I'd lean toward doing the WP as part of the TB job.

Comments:
1. unless you have done a serp belt job relatively recently (needs doing every 50K miles) add a serp belt, 2 serp belt idlers and maybe, your call, a serp belt tensioner. While at it do a fan shroud mod for ease of future access; see viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322
2. don't waste any money on the boost pressure solenoid, it either is working or it's not. If working leave alone until it quits working. Easy to diagnose and a 2-5 minute DIY job to replace.
3. some say add thermostat to TB job. My opinion is same as for boost pressure solenoid. If your temp gauge rides less than 1 tick left of vertical the tstat is ok. Replacement is a bit of a pain but well within DIY capability with some basic tools and a couple of hours
4. If you are doing or having done, it's messy but if you can get under the vehicle not hard, a transmission filter change then by definition you will be checking the tranny fluid but that's not part of the TB job although I think tranny service also needs doing ca. every 50K miles. Remember ATF+4 only. If not DIY any competent tranny shop can handle as the 545RFE DCJ transmission is very common
5. fuel filter - DIY just don't forget to unplug the WIF sensor connection on the bottom before unscewing the old filter.

As to where/who. You might PM/email geordi whose not that far away.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:28 pm

rob40wilson03 wrote:

Also, I need to find a place in or around Charlotte, NC to do this stuff. I called one of the dealers and he looked up the price for ONLY the timing belt and water pump.... $1800. This seems totally ridiculous to me.

Thanks!!

Hey....I know it's a bit further than "in or around" Charlotte but I had my timing belt service done at Global Off Road and Diesel in Raleigh. I supplied all the parts and they did the labor for $557. Their number is 919-784-0411. Ask for Jerry. I know it's a bit far and you'd have to find some transportation for a day or 2 but it might be worth looking into over the dealership if you can't find someone to do it there. That labor was for the timing belt, water pump (although they did the Sir Sam technique of replacing the front half of the pump onto the back half without removing), both TB idlers, and tensioner.

Jim

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 3:19 pm

That is a really good rate from a shop, and here I was about to quote you the same basic price for me to do it. I can toss in the ancillary stuff you mentioned, or talk you through that, either is fine with me. Paying somebody to do the easy stuff is ok (if it is paying me lol) but no sense if you can hack changing a lightbulb.

If it takes anyone longer than 4 hours to do the timing job however, they are drinking too many beers during the job.

My time for replacing the timing belt and anything associated with... 4 hours. Only downside if you wanted me to do yours (and I would happily) is the travel. One of us would need to travel, and it is a lot of driving.

I'm willing to fly up there from S.Fl if you want, and if you've seen my posts here... You know I'm familiar with this beast. LMK if you are interested.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 11, 2013 3:20 pm

. Double post. In-flight Internet sucks.

splatinc@hotmail.com · **Joined:** Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:32 pm **Posts:** 10

How did this work out.I am located in Charlotte and just hit 91k

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Mon May 13, 2013 11:58 am

Got a shop in Taylors SC that quoted me 1200 for a full head gasket change resurface my head and do the valves. The owners daughter owns one and he has two other clients that trust him with thiers and now a third. But the easiest way to find a reputabel shop is find a shop that does bousch CP3 and fuel injector rebuilds. They always have the skinny on the best shop in the area and they can probably even point you to one that has dealt with CRDs in the past.

splatinc@hotmail.com · **Joined:** Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:32 pm **Posts:** 10

audiboy86 wrote:

Got a shop in Taylors SC that quoted me 1200 for a full head gasket change resurface my head and do the valves. The owners daughter owns one and he has two other clients that trust him with thiers and now a third. But the easiest way to find a reputabel shop is find a shop that does bousch CP3 and fuel injector rebuilds. They always have the skinny on the best shop in the area and they can probably even point you to one that has dealt with CRDs in the past.

This helps at 100k?

geordi · **Posted:** Mon May 13, 2013 4:19 pm

No, there must be another reason to pull the head on his vehicle.

The 100k mile service is ONLY related to the timing belt and associated parts. I would even suggest that if you have the ability to do the work yourself, replacing only the belt is a VERY good idea right now, no matter what mileage you are at. The stock belts are getting on to 8 years old now, if they haven't ever been changed.

If you don't know whether it has been changed FOR CERTAIN... Then it hasn't been changed. NEVER trust the word of a selling dealership. They will say anything to get the sale.

The belt itself can be found on Amazon for about $75, which is a very fair price for it. The tensioner and the idlers only need to be changed if the bearings show signs of grease ejection or are loose / wobbly... Which happens after they eject the grease. To date, none of the timing belt jobs I have done on the 100k-mile-or-so engines have needed rollers or tensioners. The water pump is the same thing: If the engine isn't running hot and the pump pulley is solid and smooth (all have been) then I wouldn't worry about the water pump either.

The hardest part of the whole job is getting the dang fan off if the shroud hasn't ever been modified. DO replace the fan clutch with the Hayden Heavy Duty. If you have the stock clutch, IT IS FAILED. 100% certainty. Also, to modify the shroud for easier removal, cut the plastic with a sawzall just below the two mounting points on either side. Throw away the bottom section, the top is all you need for protection. Also *****SAFETY TIP***** the 10mm bolts and the 'captured nuts' in the radiator housing are specific to the fan shroud. DO NOT SWAP THEM or when you tighten them... You may puncture the radiator endcap. If this happens, the entire radiator is junk. Isn't it such a great design?

100k service - did I miss anything?

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