CRD Motor Mount photo request

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 1:36 pm

dgeist wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

The motor mount can breakdown internally, thats what happened to CATCRD, and leave no visible indication from outside.

Err... any way to diagnose/troubleshoot that? Just replace them and hope for the best? The operation is non-trivial in the driveway (for me) and with the economy, the 2 closest jeep dealers are now bye-bye... it's a major trip to get to anyone that has any experience working on the lib.

Dan

I laid under the jeep and put a prybar between the crossmember and oil pan. I bounced the engine a little and kept the other hand on the mount. I could hear and feel a slight ticking inside it. Then I had someone grab the top of the engine and shake it a little side to side. I could still feel that ticking in the passenger mount. At this point anyway, you should definitely be able to tell whether it's coming from the right or left side. The mounts are not expensive on moparpartsamerica.com. You could always buy one and take the jeep to an independent shop. It should only take them an hour to do one.

SBosco · **Posted:** Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:32 pm

I get the same type of thing in my CRD, and you're right...it does feel a lot like a motor mount. I even asked the dealership to look into the motor mounts when it was still under warranty. They told me the motor mounts tested fine.

I do remember reading on here a while ago something about a similar complaint involving the lubrication of a yolk? or something of sorts in the drivetrain. Keep us all informed of the progress though...as I too would like to learn about the fix.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:26 pm

Took it to the one remaining jeep dealer in the area Sat AM (after Atlanta got 3 inches of snow Friday, which is a LOT around here) and the guy said they wouldn't be able to drive it around the lot, so they couldn't diagnose it and that they could look at it, but it'd be 99 bucks if they found the issue or not (not including the cost of fixing whatever they found). The guy had ZERO other vehicles in the service bay when I got there at 8:30 AM but he still wasn't even willing to do to the "We won't make you pay if we can't find the problem." Needless to say, the cheap bas$%&d that I am, I don't want to pay someone to MAYBE fix it. I'm more the "give me a break on the little stuff and and I'll be a faithful customer when I need a timing-chain" kind of person. There is a reason dealers are making people even less fond of them in a economic slump...

In any case, Sunday, my intermittent clunking started to go away and I started hearing loud rattle (but not the kind that the alternator pulley makes) coming from the engine bay when the vehicle was stopped but in gear. At this point, I'm figuring that the mount that's going just went some more, so I figured I'd just buy some new mounts and eat the 35 bucks if it's unneeded. Now I just need a good independent stop to install them for an honest price.

P.S. Anyone know of any after-market suppliers of motor mounts for the CRD? I couldn't find anything from Energy suspension, prothane ,or the other common ones.

Dan

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:52 pm

Mine did the same two-stage noise yours is doing. It got a lot louder after I floored it in traffic one day. Must've broke the last bit inside it.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 6:04 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Mine did the same two-stage noise yours is doing. It got a lot louder after I floored it in traffic one day. Must've broke the last bit inside it.

Which side was it? I ordered both but I might do them one at a time to see if it fixes the problem

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:52 pm

Mine was the passenger side. I think this is also the easier one to replace so I'd start there. Have you tried listening to the mounts while someone shakes the engine side to side from above?

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:42 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Mine was the passenger side. I think this is also the easier one to replace so I'd start there. Have you tried listening to the mounts while someone shakes the engine side to side from above?

Negative. My usual driveway helper (my wife) is typically occupied with my "dangerboy" toddler. I'll have to get her to give me a hand during naptime this weekend.

Dan

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:14 am

Passenger side mount..... for sure.

From reading past posts dealing with failing passenger mounts and from first hand experience.

1. Try to tighten the motor mount bolt from the top. The bolt can be seen if you look down behind the side of the air intake box.

If that doesn't make the problem go away then:

2. Replace passenger side motor mount.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 3:08 pm

dgeist wrote:

Took it to the one remaining jeep dealer in the area Sat AM (after Atlanta got 3 inches of snow Friday, which is a LOT around here) and the guy said they wouldn't be able to drive it around the lot, so they couldn't diagnose it and that they could look at it, but it'd be 99 bucks if they found the issue or not (not including the cost of fixing whatever they found). The guy had ZERO other vehicles in the service bay when I got there at 8:30 AM but he still wasn't even willing to do to the "We won't make you pay if we can't find the problem." Needless to say, the cheap bas$%&d that I am, I don't want to pay someone to MAYBE fix it. I'm more the "give me a break on the little stuff and and I'll be a faithful customer when I need a timing-chain" kind of person. There is a reason dealers are making people even less fond of them in a economic slump...

In any case, Sunday, my intermittent clunking started to go away and I started hearing loud rattle (but not the kind that the alternator pulley makes) coming from the engine bay when the vehicle was stopped but in gear. At this point, I'm figuring that the mount that's going just went some more, so I figured I'd just buy some new mounts and eat the 35 bucks if it's unneeded. Now I just need a good independent stop to install them for an honest price.

P.S. Anyone know of any after-market suppliers of motor mounts for the CRD? I couldn't find anything from Energy suspension, prothane ,or the other common ones.

Dan

Did you ever check to see if the clunk was caused by the driveshaft binding as it slides in and out of the tranny? Pretty common for the splines to go dry.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:50 pm

I got a chance to replace the passenger-side mount today (with the heat shield). I had to do a lot of trial and error to figure out how to get the engine lifted up enough to clear the mounts and not so far as to crush anything in the engine bay or around the transmission. That was sort of scary (even with the fan shroud moved).
What I learned:

- Both the top and the bottom mounting nuts are 18mm, but the top requires a deep socket. I happened to have a set that went from 16 to 19.... so 19 worked in a pinch, just had a little slop and I had to be careful.

- Loosening both sides makes the clearance go up slower. Just barely loosen the driver's side and as you lift the engine, it'll hold down that side and the centerline of the tranny will act as a pivot

- Popping the air box assembly out gives you excellent access for the passenger side. The drivers side required that I slip off the output of the cold side intercooler hose to get a shallow enough angle to break the nut without the exact right socket. The underside of the passenger side is an arm's reach away as long as the exhaust is cool and I STILL have no idea how to get any leverage on the driver's side. I think you might have to disconnect the differential carriage assembly from the main engine crossmember assembly :?:

- Getting the old mount out is not too bad, but putting the new one in was a chore. There wasn't quite enough clearance for it to just slide in, so I got the top bolt up into the engine bracket and nutted it a few threads then tapped the bottom of the engine mount until the bottom shafts lined up with the frame's holes (thank you 18" ratchet extension for letting me tap on you).

After all was said and done (and I rotated the tires, drained my provent, and mounted a new skid plate), the jeep was rattle-free and seemed a bit smoother. I could swear my fuel economy went up by a couple tenths (less vibrating... :wink:

)

Thanks to Durangotang for suggesting the mounts to me. $35 bucks and an afternoon wrenching and I saved my self a long trip to a dealer, some moolah, and probably got a more careful and accurate repair (albeit slower).

Dan

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:08 pm

Did you remove the passenger engine mount bracket? 4 bolts holding it to the block? Makes it a little easier to get the mount in and out.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:52 am

CATCRD wrote:

Did you remove the passenger engine mount bracket? 4 bolts holding it to the block? Makes it a little easier to get the mount in and out.

I didn't. I was a little nervous about getting it back on properly (torque and what-not) but I was about 30 minutes away from that... perhaps it would have saved me some time in hindsight.

Dan

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:54 pm

Yep, it saves some work because you don't have to raise the engine so high to get it off those loooong engine mount studs.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sat Feb 27, 2010 2:36 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Yep, it saves some work because you don't have to raise the engine so high to get it off those loooong engine mount studs.

That's one of the best parts about the CRD, I'm learning all new skills and tricks that I didn't get from owning any previous vehicles. It's like the engineers/designers put their own little quirks into each model that make things tricky and the KJ has more than it's share

Dan

65Corvair · **Posted:** Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:15 pm

I would also recommend using jack stands on the "frame" compared to wheel ramps. When your jeep is on wheel ramps and you jack up the engine, the front of the jeep will also raise because you are removing the weight of the engine from the suspension. With jack stands, only the engine would move and it makes it easier to determine how high you are actually raising the engine.

Big Montana · **Posted:** Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:25 pm

My we ask where you got mounts for $35?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:41 pm

Google PN 52129011AD; several places have that one for $36 but I don't know how much they will hit you for shipping. The other mount costs more but it's not worth the money as the only difference is the heat shield which you can swap over from the old mount.

Big Montana · **Posted:** Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:47 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Google PN 52129011AD; several places have that one for $36 but I don't know how much they will hit you for shipping. The other mount costs more but it's not worth the money as the only difference is the heat shield which you can swap over from the old mount.

No way. I didn't know I could just swap the shield. That's great news. I can't believe I never read that before considering how long I've been on this site. It looks like moparmartsamerica is close to that price, and I've bought from them before. I'll pick up two.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:37 pm

Fwiw, I replaced both mine today and added a walkthrough in the crd tech. I'd recommend buying the mount for passenger side new, for few bucks more it's not worth the hassle to remove the shield from the existing mount, but that's my 2 cents...

CRD Motor Mount photo request

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