Hey guys!

Long time ago I've been here! My dad owns a 2,5 CRD KJ, bought new in 2003. I fell in love with Jeep, and bought a 98 Grand Cherokee 5,9L when I turned 19 haha. I do a lot of work on the Jeeps by myself. A few years ago, I did the timing belt job on the CRD together with a mechanic. Was my first time and wasn't really hard (w/o waterpump, lol).

Now, my question is.. I can buy a 2,8L CRD 2003 model, with a broken timing belt for not so much. I read everywhere that these CRD's are designed to break the rockers when the timing belt breaks. I'm from Europe and can buy these rockers for $10,- each or something from the UK. Putting on the new timing belt will be no problem I think, but I have to look how to turn the engine on time.

So, from what I understand... You dont have to take the head off, taking of the diesel injectors, valve cover, replacing the rockers and put a new belt on is enough to make it running again. Right?

What do you guys think?

You make it sound so simple. Assuming when the TB went all that happened was the rocker rollers collapsed as designed, likely but not absolutely certain; assuming you have the tools and know how (don't know about tools but you appear to at least know how to do the TB); and assuming you can get the dead CRD for a good price (won't comment on what that is) then retiming the engine and replacing rockers is time consuming but not technically difficult.

Short version is you need to do:
1. a full serpentine belt replacement - does not include tensioner or idlers unless they are leaking grease
2. a full TB job - I'd include all the stuff from the idParts pkg (http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info ... 1f46ff748e) including the front half (where all the moving parts are) of the water pump.
3. full set of rockers and lifters - requires locking the cams (cam holding tool not pins) to undo the cam bolts; remove injectors and fuel rail; pull "valve cover" (houses the cams); replace rockers/lifters; carefully reinstall "valve cover" without dislodging the rockers; etc.
Likely to take a good solid couple of days or a bit more.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I know these rockers are designed as the relief point but I'd be very surprised if no valves are damaged. I'd spend some time doing cylinder leakage tests with the valves closed before I pulled the trigger or at least know what a reman head would cost as a worst case. It sure doesn't take much to bend valves.

Tigafila

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'05 CRD Limited: 174k mi Euro Torque Converter, EHM, ORM, Racor fuel filter, Original Rocker Arms, Amsoil everywhere
'98 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 24 valve extended cab short bed
'01 Jinma 4wd diesel tractor

I would plan on buying a new head and or rebuild head (factor that in the price), and be pleasantly surprised if it is repairable without pulling it. Personally, I would just pull the head and take the opportunity to rebuild it and tank the intake to remove all the soot and oil deposits.

Sounds like you are competent enough to do the job, you should go for it.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Go for it!
I would plan on pulling the head, inspect the valves and piston tops for any damage. Have a machine shop clean head and intake, do a valve job on the head, check for any warpage while you got it off, re-install with ARP studs and new rockers.
Install new belt, tension pulleys, water pump and all should be good for another 100k miles...
Oh yea, disconnect and block off the EGR and do an EHM, your motor will thank you for it!!!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Unless you pull the injectors and look into the cylinders with a bore scope, you do not know if any of the valve heads have broken off.

Also, though many KJ CRDs have continued on after piston/valve contact, some have blown up, 10-30K miles later, with either top or bottom end failures.

If all the valves are currently intact, you should be able to bring it back to life. However, I would make sure you pay an amount that will not result in you shooting yourself if the motor blows up in less than 30K miles.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP