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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 11:08 am 
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Does anyone know which of the 6 maps for (BoostxRPM) represent pre-injection, post-injection and main injection? I tried to use some math to figure it out but they all seem to overlap each other at some point in term of which map is early or late in the injection process. Any help is appreciated. :D

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 3:32 pm 
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Squeeto wrote:
Sir Sam wrote:
I have updated(finally) my stock tune for the following, EGR Delete(done in two places on the map per another example I found online), FCV delete, and the P0610 "vehicle options error" that seems to happen during a jumpstart.

In case anyone else has the odd software version I have, here is my modified files:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... 372424.Bin
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/ ... 24.Bin.zip


Bin name shows 1037372424 and info inside bin shows 1037375603.
Is the 2424 just your renaming of the 603 because of your mod?

Also did you change the hysteresis maps too?


No. Thats the file name that MPPS created for me. I did not edit that filename.

If you search the web you will find someone else out there who posted a "1037372424" file that is 600 software version - which is for a 2005 manual CRD. I believe the 600 and 603 software are for the same rev of ECUs, and just vary in the manual vs auto calibration.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 6:19 pm 
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Has anyone tried the Yeti Stage IV tune? Currently running the Yeti Stage II. Was curious to how it ran and if holds up well to everyday driving conditions? Or is it one of those tunes it was fun to play with and go back to one of the lower tunes? I do have a completely rebuilt transmission with the suncoast TC. I know it can handle it. I have been very please with the Stage II, I have been running it since Oct 15 and its been wonderful, but I'm little scaried to try the Stage IV before knowing anyone who has tried it first. Thanks

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 8:12 pm 
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I tried the 811 stage IV tune and didnt like it.
But I was also dealing with problems with my fuel rail pressure sensor at the same time. So that may have been a big reason why.
There ard others here who like it.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 9:13 pm 
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kouik wrote:
Does anyone know which of the 6 maps for (BoostxRPM) represent pre-injection, post-injection and main injection? I tried to use some math to figure it out but they all seem to overlap each other at some point in term of which map is early or late in the injection process. Any help is appreciated. :D


I am not exactly sure which maps you are talking about, but since you mentioned there are 6, I assume you talking about the Start of injection maps?

first thing, there is no post injection. According to GDE and a post by MrMopar64(http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=306043#p306043)there are 2 pilot injections and a main injection. GDE has stated on here that they remove one of the pilot injection events and it occurs when a certain coolant temp is reached. MrMopar64 suggests the same in his post for the stock tune but does not say what causes it to stop. This is why I mentioned you start looking for a map which has temperature on one axis as it could indicate that the map is for the pilot injection.

I am having trouble understanding how the 6 SOI maps control both pilot and main injection as well. My understanding is that these maps are simply used for different engine temperatures. As the engine warms it will cause the fuel to burn at different rates and may require that the timing be backed off. If you look just before the SOI maps, there is an 8x10 map which uses temperature on the Y axis and it has a range which makes me think its for coolant temp. I believe this map may have something to do with the selection of the SOI map but cannot figure out how it works. the x axis is messed up.

Some things I noticed about the 6 maps: The first 3 have an x axis ranging from 0-90 IQ while the last 3 range from 0-80 IQ. The first 5 are generally the same, most ranging from about 0 in the top left to 19 in the bottom right. There does seem to be some slight differences between the first 3 vs 4 and 5. Map 6 is way more advanced thoughout most of the map. This is the only one I could see being the pilot injection map, but in the bottom right it is almost the same as the others.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 11:17 pm 
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kames30 wrote:
Has anyone tried the Yeti Stage IV tune? Currently running the Yeti Stage II. Was curious to how it ran and if holds up well to everyday driving conditions? Or is it one of those tunes it was fun to play with and go back to one of the lower tunes? I do have a completely rebuilt transmission with the suncoast TC. I know it can handle it. I have been very please with the Stage II, I have been running it since Oct 15 and its been wonderful, but I'm little scaried to try the Stage IV before knowing anyone who has tried it first. Thanks

Been running the Stage IV Hot tune with FCV/EGR delete for almost two years now without any problems other than plenty of power. I have the Suncoast TC with is a must with the Hot tune to handle the higher torque... I drive Jeep every day to work and occasional trips and get ~35 MPG on trips running > 65 MPH and ~24-27 MPG around town as long as I can keep my foot out of it.... :lol: :lol:
Go for it, you will love it!!!!

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:35 am 
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Today finally flashed my "tune" to ECU. Didn't notice any difference so far. Chacked MAF reading with Torque software. If showed 13 g/s at idle (830 rpm). That's exactly the same reading I got before the tune. At 1500 RPM I got 40 g/s.

How can I check if EGR was successfully disabled? Judging by the MAF readings either it is always open at idle or my rockers are gone. I really hope it's the former, because the engine sounds perfectly OK.

Can somebody please take his MAF readings at 1500 rpm so that I could compare them to mine?

And I would still be very grateful if somebody took a look at my "tune", it's on page 39.

Sorry for writing so many questions in one post, but I'm really worried about this MAF reading. Will go on a pretty long trip in a couple of months and don't want my engine to fail 1000 km from home.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 2:48 pm 
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alex_dsf wrote:
Today finally flashed my "tune" to ECU. Didn't notice any difference so far. Chacked MAF reading with Torque software. If showed 13 g/s at idle (830 rpm). That's exactly the same reading I got before the tune. At 1500 RPM I got 40 g/s.

How can I check if EGR was successfully disabled? Judging by the MAF readings either it is always open at idle or my rockers are gone. I really hope it's the former, because the engine sounds perfectly OK.

Can somebody please take his MAF readings at 1500 rpm so that I could compare them to mine?

And I would still be very grateful if somebody took a look at my "tune", it's on page 39.

Sorry for writing so many questions in one post, but I'm really worried about this MAF reading. Will go on a pretty long trip in a couple of months and don't want my engine to fail 1000 km from home.


I would but I cannot since my MAF doesnt work at all.

If you are well above sea level, then its possible you are getting low flow because of the low air pressure. I know my MAP only reads about 910 mbars of pressure where I live at idle. In massachusetts I would be around 1100.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:28 pm 
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Thanks WWDiesel for the input. I put the Yeti Stage IV on a couple days ago. I couldn't wait. Very happy with the performance overall. First thing I noticed was it is more quiet than Stage II did not expect that. Im running 3in straight Pipe. My mileage has improved from about 25 to about 26.4. The temperature has been in the 20's since the install so Im excited to see what I get when its warmer outside. The throttle response is awesome it gets going and you feel the torque. I have read through most of this forum and a few ppl complained about black smoke aka Rolling Coal. Im a fan of doing it for kicks just because ppl dont know its diesel but anyways this tune rolls coals any time you romp on the petal. Yet again not a complaint for me. Overall I have went from stock to Yeti's Stage II in Sept or Oct 2015 and now the Stage IV. So far no complaints at all. I have been very very happy with all the work you guys have been put into this stuff. I'll post MPG after a week or 2 of driving, but pretty sure I'll see a positive difference.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 7:20 pm 
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mass-hole wrote:
I would but I cannot since my MAF doesnt work at all.

If you are well above sea level, then its possible you are getting low flow because of the low air pressure. I know my MAP only reads about 910 mbars of pressure where I live at idle. In massachusetts I would be around 1100.


Unfortunately I'm mere 40 meters above sea level so it's definitely not the case. It's either EGR working or false readings (or MAF gone) or rockers gone.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 10:24 am 
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mass-hole wrote:
kouik wrote:
Does anyone know which of the 6 maps for (BoostxRPM) represent pre-injection, post-injection and main injection? I tried to use some math to figure it out but they all seem to overlap each other at some point in term of which map is early or late in the injection process. Any help is appreciated. :D


I am not exactly sure which maps you are talking about, but since you mentioned there are 6, I assume you talking about the Start of injection maps?

first thing, there is no post injection. According to GDE and a post by MrMopar64(http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=306043#p306043)there are 2 pilot injections and a main injection. GDE has stated on here that they remove one of the pilot injection events and it occurs when a certain coolant temp is reached. MrMopar64 suggests the same in his post for the stock tune but does not say what causes it to stop. This is why I mentioned you start looking for a map which has temperature on one axis as it could indicate that the map is for the pilot injection.

I am having trouble understanding how the 6 SOI maps control both pilot and main injection as well. My understanding is that these maps are simply used for different engine temperatures. As the engine warms it will cause the fuel to burn at different rates and may require that the timing be backed off. If you look just before the SOI maps, there is an 8x10 map which uses temperature on the Y axis and it has a range which makes me think its for coolant temp. I believe this map may have something to do with the selection of the SOI map but cannot figure out how it works. the x axis is messed up.

Some things I noticed about the 6 maps: The first 3 have an x axis ranging from 0-90 IQ while the last 3 range from 0-80 IQ. The first 5 are generally the same, most ranging from about 0 in the top left to 19 in the bottom right. There does seem to be some slight differences between the first 3 vs 4 and 5. Map 6 is way more advanced thoughout most of the map. This is the only one I could see being the pilot injection map, but in the bottom right it is almost the same as the others.


The most logical explanation to the 6 SOI maps I could find, is that the Main injection event uses 2 or 3 maps simultaneously creating both the pre-ignition process as well as the main injection, map 4 and 5 are a mystery to me because they show advance on the top left, but retardation at the bottom right compared to the first three. Some members think that the 5 and 6 are LIMP mode injection maps, in my opinion I don't think they are because limp mode seems to only cut the turbo. The number 6 is a Cold start pre-injection process (glow plug start) I know this for a fact because I messed around with it and my CRD wouldn't start. :mrgreen: But so far I have no concrete evidence to how the 6 SOI maps intereact with each other.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 1:15 pm 
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Quote:
in my opinion I don't think they are because limp mode seems to only cut the turbo


Nope. Limp mode cuts fuel too.
Disconnect your MPROP or rail pressure sensor, then try to drive it. It will drive but with severely reduced power.
And naturally, less fuel = less exhaust = less turbo boost.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 10:52 am 
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flash7210 wrote:
Quote:
in my opinion I don't think they are because limp mode seems to only cut the turbo


Nope. Limp mode cuts fuel too.
Disconnect your MPROP or rail pressure sensor, then try to drive it. It will drive but with severely reduced power.
And naturally, less fuel = less exhaust = less turbo boost.


I see, it makes sense doesn't it? So those two maps (SOI MAP #4,5) could in fact be the limp mode SOI maps.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 8:54 pm 
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Hello - latest new guy here.

Love my KJ.
I have read through al 41 pages of this thread (whew - what a read) along with the thread -- understand ECU map
I have my cable and pulled by ECU data - - looks to be a 526 - there are no posted modified files for the 526

I got titanium, working and looked at Yeti's FVC-EGR modified stock bin comparing against the stock and I think I found all the differences and here are the corresponding locations in the 526 ( I think)
I see three blocks where the values are set to Zero ---- E209C - E20F5 & E2102 - E2194 & E275E - E27E7
one block where the values are set to 15500 (hex 3C8C) E1E50 - E1FCB
and one where they are set to 15,000 (hex 3A98) E2964 - E2A9F

I think I have duplicated these changes into a 526.bin - but would kinda like to have one of the guys that seems to have been doing this for a while say if it looks right (please Yeti or Nick or Squeeto or ???? --- PM me and I can send you the files for review )

I am happy to post and share once we get a once over by an Expert

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 3:42 pm 
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alex_dsf wrote:
Today finally flashed my "tune" to ECU. Didn't notice any difference so far. Chacked MAF reading with Torque software. If showed 13 g/s at idle (830 rpm). That's exactly the same reading I got before the tune. At 1500 RPM I got 40 g/s.

How can I check if EGR was successfully disabled? Judging by the MAF readings either it is always open at idle or my rockers are gone. I really hope it's the former, because the engine sounds perfectly OK.

Can somebody please take his MAF readings at 1500 rpm so that I could compare them to mine?

And I would still be very grateful if somebody took a look at my "tune", it's on page 39.

Sorry for writing so many questions in one post, but I'm really worried about this MAF reading. Will go on a pretty long trip in a couple of months and don't want my engine to fail 1000 km from home.


Yesterday measured MAF readings again. As before, 13 g/s @ 830 rpm. Around 15 g/s @ 900 rpm. And then suddenly 24 g/s @ 930 rpm. Assuming my measurements are correct, EGR is definitely open at idle. And it does not get closed after 60 seconds as mentioned in this thread: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=73782&p=774101#p774101 It's good to know that my rockers are most likely OK. It's bad to know that my EGR is still working and I have a somewhat "unique" tune.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 4:44 pm 
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alex_dsf wrote:
alex_dsf wrote:
Today finally flashed my "tune" to ECU. Didn't notice any difference so far. Chacked MAF reading with Torque software. If showed 13 g/s at idle (830 rpm). That's exactly the same reading I got before the tune. At 1500 RPM I got 40 g/s.

How can I check if EGR was successfully disabled? Judging by the MAF readings either it is always open at idle or my rockers are gone. I really hope it's the former, because the engine sounds perfectly OK.

Can somebody please take his MAF readings at 1500 rpm so that I could compare them to mine?

And I would still be very grateful if somebody took a look at my "tune", it's on page 39.

Sorry for writing so many questions in one post, but I'm really worried about this MAF reading. Will go on a pretty long trip in a couple of months and don't want my engine to fail 1000 km from home.


Yesterday measured MAF readings again. As before, 13 g/s @ 830 rpm. Around 15 g/s @ 900 rpm. And then suddenly 24 g/s @ 930 rpm. Assuming my measurements are correct, EGR is definitely open at idle. And it does not get closed after 60 seconds as mentioned in this thread: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=73782&p=774101#p774101 It's good to know that my rockers are most likely OK. It's bad to know that my EGR is still working and I have a somewhat "unique" tune.


Can you post up your tune so we can take a look? Did you also shut down the FCV?

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:01 pm 
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mass-hole wrote:
Can you post up your tune so we can take a look? Did you also shut down the FCV?


Dropbox link is on page 39 of this thread :-) Posted on Sun Feb 14, 2016 1:52 am

Looking back at that "tune" (based on Nick-811-EGR_FCV_Delete-Stock_Tune) I see that it's definitely incorrect. There are too few changes compared to for example Yeti's EGR/FCV delete. I also mentioned this fact in that post. I've now prepared a new tune, based on 809 EGR/FCV delete from the first page of this thread. You can get it from here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ko8qi7wefjhs6ut/Cherokee_modified_map_at_0e147e_0e1f3c_0e1fa2_0e2140.MOD?dl=0 I'll probably try flashing this tune to ECU later this week. Values are different from 809, but places of modifications are same or very similar. I would still be very grateful if you could take a look at it, because I'm not sure whose tune is this 809 and can't be sure if it works. Maybe I copied modifications that didn't work in the first place.

In that new tune I modified 4 locations. In 2 of them (small maps) values were set to 00, in the other 2 (considerably larger maps) values were set to something else. AFAIK Yeti's 808 tune should contain modifications in 5 places. Which makes me think that my tune as well as 809 EGR/FCV delete tune lack something.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 12:11 pm 
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alex_dsf wrote:
mass-hole wrote:
Can you post up your tune so we can take a look? Did you also shut down the FCV?


Dropbox link is on page 39 of this thread :-) Posted on Sun Feb 14, 2016 1:52 am

Looking back at that "tune" (based on Nick-811-EGR_FCV_Delete-Stock_Tune) I see that it's definitely incorrect. There are too few changes compared to for example Yeti's EGR/FCV delete. I also mentioned this fact in that post. I've now prepared a new tune, based on 809 EGR/FCV delete from the first page of this thread. You can get it from here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ko8qi7wefjhs6ut/Cherokee_modified_map_at_0e147e_0e1f3c_0e1fa2_0e2140.MOD?dl=0 I'll probably try flashing this tune to ECU later this week. Values are different from 809, but places of modifications are same or very similar. I would still be very grateful if you could take a look at it, because I'm not sure whose tune is this 809 and can't be sure if it works. Maybe I copied modifications that didn't work in the first place.

In that new tune I modified 4 locations. In 2 of them (small maps) values were set to 00, in the other 2 (considerably larger maps) values were set to something else. AFAIK Yeti's 808 tune should contain modifications in 5 places. Which makes me think that my tune as well as 809 EGR/FCV delete tune lack something.


the newest one looks alright to me. the only thing I saw was that you didnt not copy the highest value from the FCV table. You used 17049 and there is a 17098 in the original table.

I actually wonder why you couldnt just set it to some artifically high value. If its a flow rate from the MAF then I assume you could just set it to 20000 or 25000, some number thats a higher flow then the engine could ever suck in.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 7:16 pm 
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mass-hole wrote:
the newest one looks alright to me.


Just tried this tune and I can confirm that EGR is now disabled. :BANANA: MAF shows 21-22g/s @ 830 rpm which is excellent. Acceleration is good and no error codes in ECU after a short drive with some full throttle accelerations. Next step would be some mild tune. And reduce idle rpm if I can find the place in maps where it is defined. My previous car weighed the same, but had a 92 kW engine and idled between 750 and 800 rpm. See no reason for the jeep to have higher idle RPM.

mass-hole wrote:
the only thing I saw was that you didnt not copy the highest value from the FCV table. You used 17049 and there is a 17098 in the original table.

I actually wonder why you couldnt just set it to some artifically high value. If its a flow rate from the MAF then I assume you could just set it to 20000 or 25000, some number thats a higher flow then the engine could ever suck in.


Missed that value. Will modify the map accordingly. Thank you very much for spending your time to look at my tune and noticing this problem!


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 12:23 pm 
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kouik wrote:
mass-hole wrote:
kouik wrote:
Does anyone know which of the 6 maps for (BoostxRPM) represent pre-injection, post-injection and main injection? I tried to use some math to figure it out but they all seem to overlap each other at some point in term of which map is early or late in the injection process. Any help is appreciated. :D


I am not exactly sure which maps you are talking about, but since you mentioned there are 6, I assume you talking about the Start of injection maps?

first thing, there is no post injection. According to GDE and a post by MrMopar64(http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=306043#p306043)there are 2 pilot injections and a main injection. GDE has stated on here that they remove one of the pilot injection events and it occurs when a certain coolant temp is reached. MrMopar64 suggests the same in his post for the stock tune but does not say what causes it to stop. This is why I mentioned you start looking for a map which has temperature on one axis as it could indicate that the map is for the pilot injection.

I am having trouble understanding how the 6 SOI maps control both pilot and main injection as well. My understanding is that these maps are simply used for different engine temperatures. As the engine warms it will cause the fuel to burn at different rates and may require that the timing be backed off. If you look just before the SOI maps, there is an 8x10 map which uses temperature on the Y axis and it has a range which makes me think its for coolant temp. I believe this map may have something to do with the selection of the SOI map but cannot figure out how it works. the x axis is messed up.

Some things I noticed about the 6 maps: The first 3 have an x axis ranging from 0-90 IQ while the last 3 range from 0-80 IQ. The first 5 are generally the same, most ranging from about 0 in the top left to 19 in the bottom right. There does seem to be some slight differences between the first 3 vs 4 and 5. Map 6 is way more advanced thoughout most of the map. This is the only one I could see being the pilot injection map, but in the bottom right it is almost the same as the others.


The most logical explanation to the 6 SOI maps I could find, is that the Main injection event uses 2 or 3 maps simultaneously creating both the pre-ignition process as well as the main injection, map 4 and 5 are a mystery to me because they show advance on the top left, but retardation at the bottom right compared to the first three. Some members think that the 5 and 6 are LIMP mode injection maps, in my opinion I don't think they are because limp mode seems to only cut the turbo. The number 6 is a Cold start pre-injection process (glow plug start) I know this for a fact because I messed around with it and my CRD wouldn't start. :mrgreen: But so far I have no concrete evidence to how the 6 SOI maps intereact with each other.


Did you ever figure this out?

These are how I got all the info on how SOI maps work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9zBF7dRYMU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoOBaTTI7fo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZA0xX0ExhY

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