Smoke on start-up once warm smoke gone

DadsDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 6:15 pm

Where did the head bolt torque survey go??

also, I am having a bear of a time getting exhaust manifold loose from the head. Do I need to take off the turbo?

I would have already had the head off today if it weren't for not knowing how to get the exhaust manifold off the head!!!

A search here gives me squat!

Help!

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 6:31 pm

Here's my research thread, thanks for your data!

You have already made the right decision though, putting in the studs.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=79984

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 6:48 pm

I just undid the vband clamp on the downpipe and the egr tube and pulled the head/manifold/turbo out all in one shot. Makes it alot easier to get to all the nuts on the turbo, although it is heavier.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 8:51 pm

I usually take the turbo off and leave the manifold on. I always soak the turbo nuts in pb blaster for a day or so. Leaving the turbo on will work as well, it will just be heavier.

DadsDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 13, 2016 10:50 pm

diesel_guy86 wrote:

I just undid the vband clamp on the downpipe and the egr tube and pulled the head/manifold/turbo out all in one shot. Makes it alot easier to get to all the nuts on the turbo, although it is heavier.

Hah! That's what my son wanted to do! I was like, are you kidding? Do you realize how heavy that will be!?! I just read him your post, he was like, see dad! We would have been done!

So tomorrow evening, that is what we are going to do. I hope he eats his Wheaties!

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 12:07 pm

38 lbs of head, about 10 lbs of exhaust manifold, and about 15-20 of turbo. Yeah, it isn't light, but it is manageable. It helps a LOT if you have a shop crane to get in there and pick it.

DadsDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2016 8:12 am

Here are some pics of the process:

Intake manifold:

Can I clean it with diesel and not worry about the cam bearings? Or, do the cams need to be removed? Or, do I need to provide better pictures?

#1 Injector - Look at that crud!

A shot with the head still attached, and the exhaust manifold, and the turbo.... off the HF to "acquire" a shop crane. Just lifting the intake manifold off I disturbed the rockers. I have been wondering how I was going to get it back on without knocking one loose again! Thanks Geordi for the tip!!!

Let my adventure serve as a lesson to the rest of you, unless you are a glutton for punishment like I am, and can afford to have your tractor off the road for as long as it takes, do yourself a favor and "better call Saul" no wait, that's not right. (diesel fumes have me giddy) "Just call Geordi" and have him do it for you!!!

I only have the weekends to work on the truck and the pit in my stomach grows deeper as I watch the collage of engine parts get larger lying on the floor of the garage.

More masochistic pictures to follow.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2016 9:03 am

If you can find and engine shop near you, you can get it hot tanked for probably $20. When it comes out it will look better than brand new inside and out. If you go this route you'll have to order new cam seals because the cams have to come out, but those are like $7 at idparts.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

I took my manifold to the local machine shop. They cleaned it cheap (like $20). They left the cams in place. That way I didn't need to replace the seals or plugs. When I got it home I put the cam gear bolts in and rotated the cams (slowly) with a 3/8" air ratchet while pumping oil down into the cam bearings thru the oil galleys. Works like a charm.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2016 9:19 pm

I was told the cams had to be taken out, something about the steel on aluminum would cause a galvanic reaction or something like that. Guy does alot of sprint car motors so i took his word for it, plus for $14 it didnt hurt to throw new seals in.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Mar 20, 2016 1:19 am

Not everyone has the same cam seals however... Some have a one-time-use plug on the back, others have a threaded cap. There aren't "bearings" as such in there, they are just oil cushioned, so as long as you aren't cooking it, they should be fine staying in place.

Sinking the whole thing in diesel fuel works well too - especially if you can leave it to marinate for a few days. This is how the TDI guys clean theirs.

DadsDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 20, 2016 11:30 pm

Here is how I got the head out of the engine bay.

Cylinder #1-#4

Ceramic glow plugs are all intact. And will be in place.

The question I have is, cyl #1 not at TDC as shown in the pictures. Yet, the timing pin is in place in the flywheel.... When this things goes back together, I need proper timing. Where do I go for that?

Efren_Hinojosa · **Joined:** Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:29 pm **Posts:** 42

Someone correct me if i am wrong but i am pretty sure that when the flywheel is pinned, piston 1 should be at 90 degrees past tdc

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 1:32 am

Your engine is exactly correct. All 4 cylinders are in the midpoint of their travel, and at the moment (since there is no head and no cams) there is no intake or exhaust stroke. So you are 90 ATDC on #1.

Mark the top of the crank hub with a paint pen right now, it will be helpful later when you are rotating everything by hand. The crank pin is not so critical later as knowing that you have the hub holes at vertical and horizontal, with that 90ATDC mark staring at you. The factory mark is nearly impossible to see while working on it.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:50 am

You should take the head to a machine shop to have it pressure tested and checked for cracks.

Looks like cyljnders 3 and 4 had water in them. Which seems pretty typical for engines with a blown head gasket or cracked head.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 1:04 pm

That could also just be from lifting the head off - there will usually be some drainage from the oil and water jackets.

Looking at the pictures, it actually looks to me like the wet cylinders are #2 and #3.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:56 pm

I see now.
I assumed he posted the pics in order from top to bottom 1-4.
Now I see they are top to bottom 4-1.
The arrows on the pistons were the clue.

#4 looks good.
But what is all that rust looking crud on #1 ?

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2016 10:20 pm

flash7210 wrote:

I see now.
I assumed he posted the pics in order from top to bottom 1-4.
Now I see they are top to bottom 4-1.
The arrows on the pistons were the clue.

#4 looks good.
But what is all that rust looking crud on #1 ?

Probably crystalized coolant, ive seen it form on another diesel i owned that sat awhile before i got it.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

Another tip for getting the crank rotated & aligned easier. When I had the crank in position I pulled the flywheel access plug (right near the starter) and put a mark on the flywheel & adjacent bellhousing. Then when you're ready to put things back together just use that mark for a quick reference. Its much easier to see when you're rolling the crank over by hand (with a wrench) and since the mark is like 18inches off the centerline of rotation (vs. the crank hub mark) it is much easier to get it spot on - at least to the point where you can easily insert the flywheel pin. For me all of the this was super easy because I had the engine out and sitting on an engine stand. In that situation you can actually see the flywheel timing hole and get it perfectly aligned - to where you can easily screw the flywheel timing pin in by hand. Then I paint marked the flywheel in the access hole (opposite side of the flywheel).

Also, since you have the lift - reassemble the head, exhaust manifold, turbo and oil drainback tube. Set the whole assembly back onto the block with the lift. Once you get the head to within about an inch of sitting down on the block - work the oil drainback tube into its rubber seal on the side of the block (it has a flex section in it). Works like a charm. Plus getting the exhaust manifold & turbo reassembled and torqued sitting on the bench vs. bending over the fender is much easier and more pleasant.

For the intake reinstall - get yourself 2 long bolts the same size as the factory one. Cut off the head and grind a point on the shaft (just below where you cut the head off). Screw them into the head. These will act as guide pins and insure you get the manifold dropped onto the head straight down so as to nit disturb any of the rockers. You'll see once you start the reassembly process. Make certain that with the ground points they are just long enough to poke up thru the manifold to where you can get at them to unscrew them once the intake is in place. Check my build thread (towards the last few pages). There are lots of pics. GL

DadsDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:51 pm

Thanks everyone,

Had the head pressure tested today at the local machine shop... They say no cracks. Never saw a head like the CRD they said, the owner of the shop (old guy, grey hair) said it must have been a "swap." Once I convinced him it wasn't and that CD sold them in 05-06 in the US, he called the Chrysler guys to check my story. He asked if I wanted the head resurfaced, and I told him it couldn't be because of the tolerances... He confirmed it with the guy on the other end of the phone fwiw... But, kinda sounded legit, the guy knew there were 3 thicknesses of head gaskets.

Have the head back and in for a good scrubbing tomorrow to get all the old material off. Same for the block. Intake is marinading in diesel...

Yes I screwed up posting the cylinder pics... they are 4-1 not 1-4... Sorry.

What gasket spray should I use? Shop man says get the Mopar gasket spray from stealership... Sprays red, gets tacky....

Smoke on start-up once warm smoke gone

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