Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

CaptainDean wrote:

Is there a way to disable the entire AntiSkid brake system? I'd like to disconnect and toss the entire AntiSkid module.
Maybe I only have to remove the two AntiSkid lamps on the dash panel? Then make two brake lines to bypass the module.
Dean.

What is a good choice of ABS malfunction code reader. I see a quick list of the following which are in my price range of $150 or less... Any other suggestions?

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

I'm back everyone! I'm told a software glitch was preventing me from posting. Thanks for the fix !!!

Attempted to purchase a new ABS sensor cable for the right front wheel. It has a square body to the sensor but the new part arrived with a round body. Anybody have experience in finding the correct square body sensor? Do I need to change my front knuckle to accept a rouind body sensor?

Both types of front ABS sensors. Square body for right wheel. (Round body is new part)

Front suspension with red arrow at knuckle

ABS sensor cables

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 09, 2024 10:08 pm

Probably a silly question but will the round one fit in the hole?

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

layback40 wrote:

Probably a silly question but will the round one fit in the hole?

It only goes in as far as the o-ring, the hole is square into the remainder of the depth. I do wonder if I could drill it out to accept the round one.

It's not too bad of a problem, I never get into a situation whereas one wheel skids. On the island I never get over 45 mph.

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 10, 2024 1:40 pm

The right front pictured on Amazon clearly shows a SQUARE shaped sensor. I would order the correct sensor and NOT drill out the hole to fit the wrong sensor.
Right Front OEM PN: 52128694AE or 52128694AF
https://www.amazon.com/BOXI-Passenger-C ... B09G6M93DH

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

Thanks WWDiesel,

I ordered that ABS sensor from Amazon, I'll let you know what it looks like when it arrives.

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 10, 2024 9:53 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

Thanks WWDiesel,
I ordered that ABS sensor from Amazon, I'll let you know what it looks like when it arrives.
Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

Received the new AntiLock Brake cable yesterday and it looks like the right part. Yeah! :BANANA:

I'll put it in next week after I finish a couple yard and house chores.

A friend is probably going to give me a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ Renegade. Needs a clutch and a little TLC. Any of you guys recommend a Jeep YJ forum ?

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

CaptainDean wrote:

I'm back everyone! I'm told a software glitch was preventing me from posting. Thanks for the fix !!!

Attempted to purchase a new ABS sensor cable for the right front wheel. It has a square body to the sensor but the new part arrived with a round body. Anybody have experience in finding the correct square body sensor? Do I need to change my front knuckle to accept a rouind body sensor?

Both types of front ABS sensors. Square body for right wheel. (Round body is new part)

Front suspension with red arrow at knuckle

ABS sensor cables

Dean.

Attempted to install the new ABS cable to the passenger side front wheel. The cable is the wrong part !! :banghead:

I actually need the cable with the round end on it after all.

I don't understand how this happened. Last year I needed a CAT scan of my head and it proves there is a brain inside my head.

Thanks for the help WWDiesel for finding what I thought was the right part. Sorry I wasted your time and effort. I'll search Amazon and find the right part this time. I'm simply flabergasted. :oops:

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jan 13, 2025 11:28 pm

If you need further assistance, just let me know. :wink:

More than happy to help! :rockon:

Most of the ABS sensors I see listed online have the square end.

52128694AA Right Front ABS Sensor

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

Hey guys, I'm back again. I would like some advice on a motor flush goof.

I used Motor Medic Motor Flush and didn't read the directions. Ran it for a week or so instead of merely 5 minutes. Big oops. The engine ran but the turbo was sluggish -- probably bogged down with Motor Medic stuff.

So I did it again this time idling for 5 minutes then drain and refill + filter with straight diesel-rated oil. (Again, I didn't read the instructions well enough and didn't use the synthetic version.) After two more weeks, it started bogging down the turbo again. Apparently there is some residual Motor Medic goop in there.

Question: What should I use to clean out the engine again? My shade-tree mechanic mind says to include a couple quarts of kerosine or diesel and run for 20 minutes, then drain and refill + filter with good diesel rated oil.

What do you guys say?

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

Hey everyone!

Who can tell me about the high pressure fuel pressure sensor? I've changed mine twice and the latest one only lasted about 100 miles. I see that IDParts carries Bosch brand, part number 0281006186 and charges $169. AutoZone carries one on the shelf for $617. There are other Bosch #0281006186 out there for only $25 - $35. Most of the cheap ones are made in China, etc., but how can I determine when they are from real Bosch manufacturers?

Any inside information out there?

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 25, 2025 11:20 pm

What I have on file:
Google the part numbers, there are quite a few listed online, RockAuto lists the Mopar and GM ones.
They are all quite pricey, $100-$300+ dollar range. Cheap ones listed on eBay and elsewhere and are most likely chinese junk.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 76&jsn=454

Fuel Pressure Sensor on side of fuel rail
Mopar: 5159963AA Replaced by 68020556AA
Bosch No.s: 0281002921 or 0281002534 or 0281002937

GM PN: 97361561
Cummins: #3949988

Replacement Connector: 05143781AB
GT7610-807

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

Thanks WWDiesel,

Your advice has always been right on target so I ordered this Rock Auto part without hesitation. Shipping was only $6 and will be here Oct 2nd.

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

CaptainDean wrote:

...The weekend didn't go as planned. Got delayed by the big bolt in the end of the crankshaft. My electric impact gun would not get it out.
Applied a propane torch but no luck.
Used a bigger battery impact gun with 3/4" drive - still no joy.
Got out the Oxy/Accetyline set and heated the bolt head red hot and quenched it - no joy.
Borrowed a 1000 ft/lb compressed air driven impact wrench with my little air compressor - no joy.
Wrestled my big 5 hp compressor out from under the house and used it on the spare engine. Joy!! :BANANA:

Packed the beast into the pickup and took it 3 floors uphill to the front of the house and used the 1000 ft/lb impact gun and the bolt came out like it was already loose !!
Apparently the bolt needed to cool, then it came out easily.
Dean...

Hello everyone, it's been quite a while. I'm digging into the beast again, this time to replace a failed hydraulic lash adjuster. Having problems getting the crankshaft bolt out and want some help.

I know I discussed this subject a couple years ago, but I didn't find any discussion of "right-hand threads or left-hand threads" on the center bolt on the crankshaft, in the center of the harmonic balancer.

Here's the question: Is the big bolt on the crankshaft right-hand or left-hand thread? Anybody have knowledge of this?

I should be able to lodge a breaker bar on the bolt and against the frame, then crank the starter to break the bolt loose. However, if it's left-hand thread then I will break something.

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 04, 2026 1:11 pm

Based on the images I found, it certainly looks to have normal "Right Hand" threads.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

Hi WWDiesel, it's been a long time. Hope all is well with you and yours. ...and happy Easter or Passover, which ever applies.

Thanks for your research and input. I didn't think of finding a picture of a new bolt. It does appear to be right-hand thread.

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 04, 2026 9:23 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

Hi WWDiesel, it's been a long time. Hope all is well with you and yours. ...and happy Easter or Passover, which ever applies.
Thanks for your research and input. I didn't think of finding a picture of a new bolt. It does appear to be right-hand thread.
Dean.

Hi Dean,
Yes, we had a nice Good Friday, celebrated Easter on Friday, went out with our children and grandchild and ate a nice meal.
Today, I stayed home and did a brake job on a Toyota for a customer.

As to the bolt, sometimes, I think outside of the box.
But yea, it sure does look like right hand threads to me!

Cheers my friend,
Hope you and yours have a great weekend as well!
ww

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 721

Hi everyone,

As you can see, I'm digging back into the beast again.

Got the head cover off and the only thing I found that was suspicious was one slightly loose injector. That gives me pause wondering if that injector could be my clacking noise. I never did think about simply tightening down the injectors. :oops:

* At idle, it sounds quiet.
* On acceleration it clacks like a valve lifter (hydraulic lash adjuster) is not pumping up.
* During cruise is clacks.
* At higher RPMs it quiets down again.
* Sometimes I think is runs quiet when the engine and oil are still cool. Not certain about this one - maybe the metal is cool and holding the injector better?

When I put this engine together a couple years ago, I used a lot of thread locker blue. Did that because I had found the crankshaft bolt loose. One of the guys said "...use gobs of thread locker..." so I did. Now, taking it apart, I see I should not have used "gobs" on the camshaft pulley bolts.

When I loosened the bolts, the thread locker was stronger than the camshaft pulley alignment tool and it sheared the end off the camshaft locking pin. As you can see here, the alignment marks are not aligned.

Here is a close-up of the thread locker blue dust.

Fortunately, proper alignment of the engine includes positioning the crankshaft to 90° to the right. This puts the pistons halfway down the cylinder so they are not in the way of the valves.

Dean.

Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking

Who is online