It is currently Wed Nov 04, 2026 3:28 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 28 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: ORM problem, Never Mind
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 7:16 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Camano Island, Washington
During hot weather I have been having problems with my a/c. It would start out cooling fine and then when the engine gets warm it would quit cooling very erratically. I took it to the dealer before leaving Delaware and it put out 38 F for them when in the shop. Of course when I left the weather got hot later in the day and a/c starter performing badly.

I had to leave for a trip from the east coast to the west coast so I hooked up the gauges and checked pressure. It looked like it was a little low so I added a can of Freon with dye in it. I stuck a thermometer in the center duct and left for the west coast the next morning.

I noticed that the a/c would still quit and would watch the gauge go from 50 to 80 then back down so often. I continue to northwest Washington where the temperatures high are usually in the 70 during the worse part of the summer. Of course I didn’t have any problems when I was there for the pass month.

I left Washington four days ago and had trouble as soon as I got to eastern Washington. When I got to Montana the temperature outside hit 100 F and the a/c center duct would only put out 90 F most of the time. This is with me driving at 70 mph! I noticed that when I coasted down a long grade that the a/c temperature would start putting out 60 F.

The first thing the next morning in I took it to a dealership and it shows 45 F out the center duct for them of course. As soon as I left and hit I90, the a/c quit again. I began to figure that something was getting hot and the ECM was shutting the a/c down. I know that the engine temperature gauge always stayed in the middle so I was stumped.

At the next rest area I lifted the hood and plugged the MAF back in and went on my way. To my surprise that solved the problem for the temperature out the center duct stayed 40 – 50 F for the rest of the trip to the east coast.

Can anybody tell me why???? :arrow:

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair


Last edited by BlackLibertyCRD on Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ORM problem
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 7:28 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm
Posts: 1201
BlackLibertyCRD wrote:
During hot weather I have been having problems with my a/c...

The first thing the next morning in I took it to a dealership and it shows 45 F out the center duct for them of course. As soon as I left and hit I90, the a/c quit again. I began to figure that something was getting hot and the ECM was shutting the a/c down. I know that the engine temperature gauge always stayed in the middle so I was stumped.

At the next rest area I lifted the hood and plugged the MAF back in and went on my way. To my surprise that solved the problem for the temperature out the center duct stayed 40 – 50 F for the rest of the trip to the east coast.

Can anybody tell me why????


The ac exchanger is one piece with the Tranny heat exchanger. If the tranny gets real hot... then the ac is probably shut off or has to fight the heat saturation. The engine guage won't budge at all, as the engine is probably still running cool. As for why the tranny would be running so hot while cruising, I don't know. I would check the fluid level, though. I have driven mine in Southern AZ in 118+ at 75 mph and never had it fail to blow cool air.

But I don't think the ORM has anything to do with it, BTW.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 7:40 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Camano Island, Washington
I haven't had any trans problems and if I recall there is a trans temp light if it overheats. I am thinking that the exhaust and turbo runs hotter with the ORM. I know the transmission level is fine and the problem with the a/c went away when I plugged the MAF sensor back in. I'm so confused about this one.

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:05 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:01 am
Posts: 1944
Location: Mooresville, NC
Actually, if I remember correctly, people that were able to monitor EGT's said that exhaust temps actually went DOWN with the ORM - in particular I remember one post where a gent mentioned that with the ORM that cooldown time for the turbo was reduced to virtually nil once parked.

Might be some weird tie-in on the electrical side of the house that's causing it. Have you done any mods that would involve the electrical/electronic circuits that might be having an effect?

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:19 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Camano Island, Washington
The only mods it have K&N performance air filter and the V-Force muffler that is the same as a flowmwster 40. There is no electrical mod at all since I undid the ORM. I'm not even running a chip. When I plugged the MAF back in, the CEL turned off the during third start during the trip. The only other problem I had during the trip is that I had to burp the fuel filter once on the way out west and once coming back east. No fuel leak but it has be bleed every few thousand miles of the built up air in the fuel system.

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:08 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 12:56 pm
Posts: 1830
Location: Spokane, WA
One would think that others running the ORM would have seen the problem too. Me for instance with the hot weather we have had this summer.

_________________
Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:36 pm 
Offline
LOST Junkie
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 2:38 pm
Posts: 801
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
I live in Alabama and it gets REALLY hot down here. Mine takes some time to cool the entire vehicle on hot days but the gauge sais its blowing 38-40F air.

_________________
2005 CRD Sport
Mods: Glasspack, OME HD Struts & Springs, 2" Daystar lift,
255/70/16 General Grabber AT2's on MOAB's
ORM&EHM with great success!
TJM T17 Bumper, 50W KC HID's
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:48 am 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm
Posts: 1201
Maybe, if it is ORM, it is a combination of it and something else that are acting together and causing it. It seems wierd that the heat would increase enough to kill the ac, but the engine coolant would still be in spec. Could it be the belt is slipping? Maybe the mechanical clutch fan (or the alternator) and the ac pulley don't like being engaged together, but the ac works fine otherwise?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:12 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:32 pm
Posts: 163
Location: SE Belmont County, OH
Couple of things to check. Is the low pressure cut-off for the AC working, as does the AC compressor cycle? If not evaporater freezes over and no cooling. Is the belt slipping(not tight or tensioner weak)? Does the heater control valve or heater door(don't know which our CRD has) leaking thru? Blocked airflow thru condensor. Clean area at carwash. Just a few things to check. Good luck. We drove to FL in June and our AC nearly froze us out on the highway during the day as in almost too cold. Wife had to cover-up with a blanket when riding as a passenger. :evil:

_________________
08 Elantra SE daily driver
2001 F-250 powerstroke


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:12 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 7:22 am
Posts: 155
Location: Crawford County, Missouri
No problem with mine, it has been hot here, and have had the ORM for about 15000 miles or so.

_________________
2006 CRD Sport,
Born on 5-20-2006 @ 7:20pm
Jeep Green, Oil drain valve
Tow Package, Transmission skid plate
EHM2, ORM,
Current mileage 79,000.
Past Jeeps: 63 CJ5,
1994, 1995, 2000 Cherokee,
1995, 1997, 2003 Wrangler


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:14 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:54 am
Posts: 1064
Location: WI
There was some people having fan clutch issues awhile back. Usually when they go bad they lock up though.

_________________
2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:52 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:21 am
Posts: 110
Location: Front Range
Had exactly the same problem with mine.

The dealer found that the A/C system was OVERFILLED by 1 full pound of freon from the factory.

Good luck.....


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:04 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Wed Nov 08, 2006 11:32 pm
Posts: 344
Location: saint diego, ca
I did not have that problem, but I changed my air filter and my oil and then the liberty would sputter and die or if it did run when you slowed or stopped it would skip like it wanted to cut out. I checked the codes and got a 401 code and the 102 (I always get 102 with ORM). I undid the ORM and I did not have any more problems or the 401 code. After running it for a day I unplugged again and have not had any more problems. Weird.

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD, 245/75R16, OME CRD Springs front, OME HD rear


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:54 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Camano Island, Washington
Thanks for the replieds, I'm thinking of disconneting the battery for about 30 min. to clear the computer. I never done that and who know what could be going on. The a/c was cycling on and off like low freon but guages says it's not. If I start having problems again I may recycle and refill or maybe the orfice valve to restricted. Hmmmm If I recycle and refill, I should replace the orfice while I'm at it..

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:10 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:11 am
Posts: 102
Location: Nebraska
If I turn off my engine without turning off the air-conditioning compressor switch first, sometimes the electric cooling fan runs on high for a few minutes. Then on the next drive my air does not work at all. When I turn off the compressor first, the electric cooling fan stops immediately and the air works fine on the next drive. If I forget to turn off the compressor switch and the electric cooling fan continues to run I can turn the key switch to accessory and back to on position and the cooling fan stops. Then on the next drive the air works fine. :shock:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:13 am 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:32 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Leavenworth, KS
Thats nearly as complicated as making the Seat belt alarm shut-up.

K

_________________
'06 Midnight Blue CRD Sport
Born 5-06
Mopar Skids and Tow Hooks
Deer Killer Mod
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:33 pm 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 5:39 pm
Posts: 392
Location: Allen, TX
Kniggit wrote:
Thats nearly as complicated as making the Seat belt alarm shut-up.

K


:shock: :shock: did we ever find a way to do that??!!


im still ready to shoot mine!

_________________
05 CRD
3" Rough Country Lift
SAMCO SPORT Hoses
Magnaflow Muffler (12226)
CAT 2 Fuel Filter
Fumoto Drain Valve
EGR replaced at 50K
in service 8/31/04
Sold 7/21/10 125k miles
----------------------------------------------------------
Paved Roads, another form of unnecessary government spending...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:19 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:18 am
Posts: 164
Location: Iowa
I shut mine off in the dealer parking lot before I drove off....there are instructions in the owners manual. The thing drove me nuts on the test drive. I could type it in a post if you cant find yours..

_________________
77 CJ5 - sold

05 Lt Kaki CRD sport - OME HD FLII - Als UCAs - 255/70/R16 Grabber AT2
3/4 Mopar skids and hooks - Aux lighting F&R
no muffler - Sirius- Browning buckmark mud flaps
$2.76 walmart compass - and a big Black Lab in the back - sold

80 CJ7 4in springs etc.

06 TJ Unlimited


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:49 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Camano Island, Washington
Timmaah! wrote:
If I turn off my engine without turning off the air-conditioning compressor switch first, sometimes the electric cooling fan runs on high for a few minutes. Then on the next drive my air does not work at all. When I turn off the compressor first, the electric cooling fan stops immediately and the air works fine on the next drive. If I forget to turn off the compressor switch and the electric cooling fan continues to run I can turn the key switch to accessory and back to on position and the cooling fan stops. Then on the next drive the air works fine. :shock:


That's odd, I did the 30 minute battery disconnect to get the gremlems out of the CPU when I was changing the fuel pre-filter yesterday. It was OK today but started to raise when driving stop and go traffic in 85 F. Not enough to say if it's fixed or not, will try what you say if I still have problems

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:23 pm 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2007 7:12 pm
Posts: 134
Location: North Carolina
skywarn wrote:
Kniggit wrote:
Thats nearly as complicated as making the Seat belt alarm shut-up.

K


:shock: :shock: did we ever find a way to do that??!!


im still ready to shoot mine!


Here's how to remove the seat belt alarm...My First Mod
.. The following steps must occur within the first 60 seconds of the ignition switch being turned to the ON or Start postion. ...

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, and fasten the
drivers seatbelt.
2. Start engine, and wait for Seat Belt warning light to turn OFF.
3. Within 60 seconds of starting engine, unbuckle and then re-buckle
driver's seat belt at least 3 times, ending with belt buckled.
4. Turn off the engine. A single chime will sound to signify that
your life is in your own hands.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 28 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com