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 Post subject: Detroit True Trac vs. Stock Trak-Lok
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:06 pm 
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I was wondering what advantages a Detroit TT would have to a Trak-Lok system. I'm about to drop ~$800 on the rear dif (rebuild + true trac) and am wondering if the true trac is really worth it over the Trak-Lok which my rear currently already has.

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Bill

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:23 pm 
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Like Night and Day difference. Besides the fact that the DTT is gear driven and does not have any clutches to wear out...does not require and friction additive in the fluid...It will get both wheels turning MUCH MUCH easier than the Trash-Lok. You might end up wanting one for the front after you see how well it works. Also the carrier that the DTT comes with is stonger than the stock carrier.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:41 pm 
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DarbyWalters wrote:
Like Night and Day difference. Besides the fact that the DTT is gear driven and does not have any clutches to wear out...does not require and friction additive in the fluid...It will get both wheels turning MUCH MUCH easier than the Trash-Lok. You might end up wanting one for the front after you see how well it works. Also the carrier that the DTT comes with is stonger than the stock carrier.
X2 on what he said^^^


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 1:35 pm 
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x3- tru trac is a much better unit

although i have no complaints with my trak-loc. it suits my driving fine.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:23 pm 
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Last time I seen a tru trac, only one wheel was turning, the one in the air. Im not sure why this was.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:27 pm 
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Mine works well in the front.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:29 pm 
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Alak wrote:
Last time I seen a tru trac, only one wheel was turning, the one in the air. Im not sure why this was.
A TT is still a LSD,a little brake action can fool it into acting like a locker,I do it all the time with mine and both fronts will turn even with one in the air.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:32 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Alak wrote:
Last time I seen a tru trac, only one wheel was turning, the one in the air. Im not sure why this was.
A TT is still a LSD,a little brake action can fool it into acting like a locker,I do it all the time with mine and both fronts will turn even with one in the air.


Thanks everybody 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:52 pm 
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If one wheel has zero resistance (like one in the air) the true trac will not work. This is because it is a torque sensing set up and will transfer power to the wheel with less ristance but needs some for the bevel gear transfer to work. That is why you can apply a little brake and get it to work. They are a great device and have no cluthes to wear and I have had on inf the front of both of my wranglers and it works great.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 1:43 pm 
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Actually the DTTs come with Torque Bias built in (2.5x to 3.5x) that will actually turn the opposite wheel with little or no traction on the other. You can manually 'aide' the device by applying brake, but you don't always have to. The drawback to applying the brake is that is goes to all four wheels whether you want it to or not. For the rear you can pull up the ebrake a bit to just apply pressure to the rear DTT. I had one in the front with 3.5x preset torque bias and I never had to use the brakes to get a wheel with traction to turn...just a little gas and the DTT would go to work.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:05 pm 
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Quote:
letsroll

If one wheel has zero resistance (like one in the air) the true trac will not work. This is because it is a torque sensing set up and will transfer power to the wheel with less ristance but needs some for the bevel gear transfer to work. That is why you can apply a little brake and get it to work. They are a great device and have no cluthes to wear and I have had on inf the front of both of my wranglers and it works great.

Quote:
DarbyWalters

Actually the DTTs come with Torque Bias built in (2.5x to 3.5x) that will actually turn the opposite wheel with little or no traction on the other. You can manually 'aide' the device by applying brake, but you don't always have to. The drawback to applying the brake is that is goes to all four wheels whether you want it to or not. For the rear you can pull up the ebrake a bit to just apply pressure to the rear DTT. I had one in the front with 3.5x preset torque bias and I never had to use the brakes to get a wheel with traction to turn...just a little gas and the DTT would go to work.

I do some crazy rockcrawling with my KJ,with one front wheel in the air and the other just barely touching anything it will spin both tires,I just use the brakes to hold the "lock" better and have more control going up and over.Gotta keep that little extra control on the front wheel spin as not to explode the front diff running 32" tires on steel rims.The TT is awesome on slippery steep hill climbs,it grabs and paws it's way up while still being able to turn the front wheels L/R,unlike a full locker(ARB) can make turning the wheel difficult to next to impossible sometimes.I think both F/R TT's with ESP(even though I hate ESP :evil: ) would be a very tough contender offroad.


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