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 Post subject: Yukon HD Axles
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:33 am 
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I'm getting the rear rebuilt because of a bearing wearing out, so I'm going to do it right. I've ordered a Truetrac, a rebuild kit, Yukon HD axles, and new axle bearings. Should I order new lugs for the axles, and if so does anyone know what I should get? Is there anything else I should get replaced while it's torn apart? I already have 4.10 gears.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:52 am 
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I didn't think about the lugs when I did mine. They just moved the lugs from my old axles to the new ones since they were still in good shape. . Not sure how much they cost, but if they are cheap probably not a bad time to do it.

Could have them replace the universals in the drive shaft while they have it out. Cheap and easy.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 12:07 pm 
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I know! I know! Sell me the front 4.10's! :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 12:24 pm 
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Lug bolts are fairly cheap in the grand scheme of things so I would just replace them, also as bugnout stated replace the ujoints if you have not done so already, again they are fairly cheap and it will be done and over with

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:15 pm 
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Anyone know the part numbers for the lug bolts and u joints? When I check Randy's Ring & Pinion for the u joints this is what I get for the Liberty.

http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList.aspx?SearchMode=Make&MakeID=7&MakeName=Jeep+%2f+AMC&ModelID=385&ModelName=Liberty&Side=Rear&DiffID=7&DiffName=Chrysler+8.25&CatID=14&CatName=U-Joints&CatType=Stand-Alone

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:25 pm 
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I have two from Randys but can't find the numbers on them, grabbed them from a member on here that was getting rid of everything. I just used the ones from NAPA, greaseable and work the same. Same with the lugbolts check NAPA

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:36 pm 
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I'll try the local stores here, we have NAPA, O'Riley's, and Autozone.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 8:42 pm 
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Ok, I've got the Truetrac, rebuild kit, u joints, and axle bearings sitting here. The axle shafts and new wheel bolts will be here tomorrow. I'm trying to get a Riddler diff cover and the better gasket. Is there anything else while the thing is torn apart?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 8:56 pm 
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Get a LubeLocker gasket, next time you change the diff fluid you wont have to deal with any of the nasty RTV....and you can reuse it.

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viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:32 pm 
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Hope you remembered the new axle seals.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:48 pm 
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Try and find a 2003+ axle and swap over the rear discs.

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245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:02 pm 
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New seals came with the axle bearings so I should be ok there. I've got new calipers, rotors, and pads up front, and new drums and shoes in the rear, so I think I'm set for the brakes.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:20 pm 
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C-clip eliminators?? Don't know if there are any out there for the 8.25".

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245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:49 am 
Stupid question...

are 8.25s really that hit-and-miss? I'm terrible at axle maintenance (meaning I don't do it, don't ever check the level, and I'm pretty sure there's water in mine right now) and I've never heard a peep out of either diff...

And then you have somebody fanatical about maintenance, and they've got a bearing going out.

Am I missing something?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 1:22 am 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
Stupid question...

are 8.25s really that hit-and-miss? I'm terrible at axle maintenance (meaning I don't do it, don't ever check the level, and I'm pretty sure there's water in mine right now) and I've never heard a peep out of either diff...

And then you have somebody fanatical about maintenance, and they've got a bearing going out.

Am I missing something?


I think you have a good argument on your hands. Josh at Crane Hi Clearance and I had this same discussion. Being around work trucks my whole life, I’ve seen rear ends go out due to high heat and lack of maintenance (neglect). This is one reason why those who have trucks and tow large loads take differential maintenance into consideration. That’s why my Mag-Hytec rear diff on my Dodge Cummins comes in a aluminum housing with cooling fins and a magnetic drain plug and dipstick. That seems overkill, but when you’re towing serious loads for lots of miles, then the rear diff can not (under any circumstances) become neglected. However, as Josh pointed out, our Jeeps do not take the abuse, weight extremes, and high heat temperatures like our big trucks do. Therefore, his argument states that we do not need fancy diff covers with extra cooling capacity and magnetic drain plugs. He does recommend changing the diff fluid as recommended by the owners manual, but he isn’t an overkill type of guy. Josh mentioned that he’s taken apart many factory diff covers in his time. Some differentials had never been cracked open with well over 100,000 miles on them and the parts looked fairly good besides the burned up oil (which in some cases has turned into sludge). The fact of the matter is this: There is no debate on whether or not changing the diff fluid is beneficial. However, if you’re planning on trading it in after 75,000 - 100,00 miles, then why do the maintenance? If you plan on keeping your vehicle for over 100,000 + miles, then Yes, maintenance will pay off. I was hoping that ARB would make a diff cover for the KJ because I prefer the magnetic drain plug and dip stick, whereas Josh would say, “That’s not necessary on a Jeep.” This is where Josh and I would disagree, I would much rather have a drain plug and a dip stick so I wouldn’t have to crack open my rear diff every time I want to change the fluid. Plus, the magnetic drain plug and dip stick allows me to monitor the wear factor on the gears. But hey, I’m overkill, and that’s okay, because I’m keeping my Jeep well beyond the 300,000 mile mark………………………

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 4:00 pm 
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I talked to Jeff at Rokmen and I've got the Riddler diff cover for the 8.25 on the way. He said they don't bother carrying the LubeLocker gaskets anymore since they just end up sitting on the shelf there and really should be replaced each time you open the diff.

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Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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